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Shoe of the Day: Spring/Summer 2015
Footwear designer Laurence Dacade embraced the '60s theme at Chanel, creating a modified go-go boot painted in vibrant watercolor hues. The style complemented the house's use of tie-dye and tweed.
Witty hybrid winks are the hallmark of Sacai’s Chitose Abe. This season, she created what can only be described as a saucy speed-laced hiking sandal. The steep lug-sole flatform style managed to be both feminine and utilitarian.
There is a 1990s Prada sensibility in the air this season — that chunky, prim-meets-dowdy mood of substantial heels and ample room in the toe box. At Celine, the ubiquitous stretch ballerina was given a blocky heel and squared-off high vamp.
Rei Kawakubo worked a vital palette of red on red at Comme des Garcons (the colors of blood and roses, she noted), right down to the low-heeled patent boots. White cap toes and black gussets furthered her sweeping Queen of Hearts motif.
Dior’s house codes of herringbone and dusky gray were reworked for the runway this season. Footwear designer Francesco Russo sculpted a scuba knit into chisel-toe boots with a virgule heel for a style that was new yet familiar to Dior’s brand evolution.
An aviation theme was in the air at Carven, right down to the jet-ready runway and zippy boots. Models took off down the catwalk in flat patent styles with squared-off chisel toes and cutouts galore.
Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua has a way with footwear whimsy. For Rochas, he offered a Parisian spin on the normcore-centric tube sock styling trick. Thankfully, cap-toe paillette slingbacks were more haute than hipster.
A newer talent, Léa Peckre got Paris off to a sturdy start with shined uniform-style oxfords. Sheer socks kept the look from veering into normcore territory.
Peter Dundas sealed his 70s nostalgia with bohemian boots at Emilio Pucci. Shown in caramel suede with oversize grommets, the boots gave flashier looks a more free-spirited touch.
Ferragamo’s Massimiliano Giornetti took one of the house’s icons – the multicolor cork platform of 1938, groundbreaking in its day – and cast it in a series of pale neutrals for spring ’15. A criss-cross ankle strap rendered it less retro.
After all the runway trickery this week, Bally’s classic loafers were a footwear palette cleanse. Newly installed designer Pablo Coppola took his cues from the men’s side of the brand, but showed the styles in both traditional cordovan and sweet pastels.
Double-sole holographic sports sandals stole the show at Fendi. A leather feather back-strap detail picked up on the plume motif, which featured heavily in the collection.
For spring ’15, Alessandro Dell’Acqua tied together grunge elements with bowed and embellished satin mules. The outsize proportion and deep mustard hue ensured there was nothing twee about these heels.
A fluffy, marabou-like fur trimmed both pants and pointed flats at Simone Rocha. The effect was angelic and light on the feet.
Grenson’s multiple takes on proper menswear styles (paired with both minidresses and ball gowns) had a grounding effect on Giles Deacon’s signature whimsy. Kicky yellow kiltie brogues were no exception.
Matthew Williamson collaborated with buzzy British label Bionda Castana on multiple versions of its criss-cross, chignon strap pump. The style was shown in various color combinations to clash-just-so with the collection.
A distorted wallabee heel was in line with JW Anderson’s continued efforts at off-kilter Englishness, right down to the quaint robin’s egg blue nubuck.
J JS Lee kicked off London Fashion Week with a square start. Angular-soled, laceless oxfords were just the right amount of avant garde. This take on a menswear footwear classic added a subtle subversion to the collection’s crisp tailoring.
For spring ’15, Ralph Lauren showed a patent leather, candy-red mule with subtle croc embossing and a contrasting brown ankle strap.
Delpozo’s spring ’15 footwear took inspiration from the season of blooming, adorning the outer sole of its mesh lace-up wedges with white plastic-molded flowers.
For spring ’15, Cynthia Rowley collaborated with Chelsea Paris’ Theresa Ebagua on a wrap-tie version of their Yuwa mule (Beyonce’s a fan of the style).
Known for its Americana identity, Tommy Hilfiger took a star-spangled approach for spring ’15. Chiseled-toe, laceless metallic boots featured patchwork stars in red, blue and purple.
Victoria Beckham’s low-cut western flat, from her eponymous line, sported an appliquéd flower for a desert rose vibe. While eye-catching, the shoes weren’t quite as strong as in past shows, but then, those were the work of the master: Manolo Blahnik.
After turning to Casadei in seasons past, for spring ’15 Prabal Gurung launched his own footwear, produced by Iris. The standout style was a pastel multistrap sandal, which married the collection’s theme of floaty femininity meets sharp sportiness.
For the third season, Tanya Taylor turned to Paul Andrew for her runway footwear. For spring ’15, they settled on a tall block-heel sandal, shown in mixed-media variations of python, pylon orange patent, black and white.
Sept 4: After a number of seasons collaborating with Tabitha Simmons, Creatures of the Wind debuted their own line of footwear. The designers showed three styles: a flatform spin on the huarache sandal, a chunky-heeled version and a high-vamp loafer.