After a successful return to a standalone in-person trade fair in June, Pitti Uomo is gearing up to launch its next edition.
Slated to run from Jan. 10-13 at Florence’s historic Fortezza da Basso, the Italian menswear trade show will kick off the fall/winter 2023 men’s selling season as the industry still faces a plethora of headwinds.
As the men’s industry prepares for another in-person fair, see here a round up of all the events, fashion shows and happenings taking place in Florence this January.
Jan-Jan Van Essche to Stage First-Ever Show as Next Designer Project
Pitti Uomo has announced that Jan-Jan Van Essche is the Designer Project of the next edition of the menswear trade fair in January. The Belgian designer will be bringing his fluid and essential concept of fashion to Florence at a one-of-a-kind unique event, scheduled on Wednesday, Jan. 11. The location of the event will be announced in the next few days.
Van Essche said in a statement that he is “really happy, honored and grateful” to be invited by Pitti Uomo to present his work. “This will be our first show ever, so it’s going to be a special event for us in any case,” the designer said. “To be able to hold this first show in the unique atmosphere of the city of Firenze makes it extra special, something I could have only dreamed of. We feel very much supported in creating the presentation and are very motivated to make it an unforgettable moment.”
“Jan-Jan Van Essche is a reserved yet emblematic figure in contemporary men’s fashion to an extent that he would probably be the first to consider superfluous any claims of gender distinction, either to confirm it or decree it has been surpassed,” Lapo Cianchi, director of communication and events at Pitti Immagine, said in a statement. “Instead, he is interested in generating, each time, a different version of the same model of elegance and naturalness and transmitting an idea of freedom.”
Cianchi continued: “Being aware of the privateness of his character and the attention he pays to maintaining the right balance between the content and exhibition of his collections, I was not sure that he would accept our invitation. But he did, something we are very pleased about and which, we hope, will increase interest in his work.”
Van Essche graduated the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2003. In June 2010, Van Essche launched his eponymous label with “Collection#1 – ‘Yukkuri’,” Japanese for ‘take it easy’ or ‘step by step’. This title also became his intrinsic and conceptual approach to contemporary wardrobes as a designer.
Martine Rose Named Guest Designer
Martine Rose has been named the next guest designer of Pitti Uomo. The Anglo-Jamaican designer will showcase her fall/winter 2023 collection at a special event during the menswear trade fair. Specific event details are not yet known.
In a statement on Tuesday, Rose said that she was “honored” to be showing as part of the next edition of Pitti Uomo. “Pitti were celebrating mens design [sic] way ahead of the curve, and many of the designers I respect have been a part of it,” Rose said. “We are all so excited to come to Florence, a city I love, with our next collection!”
Lapo Cianchi and Francesca Tacconi, heads of the special projects of Pitti Immagine, added in the statement, “At the first meeting with Martine for the special event in Florence, we ended up talking more about family, schools, daily shopping and cycles of life in popular neighborhoods than about fashion shows. Yet it was evident how all this was closely related to her work, a cognitive and emotional baggage that mixes with great creative freedom with social and cultural thoughts and that is reflected in her collections.”
Rose launched her eponymous label in London in 2007. She is most inspired by her Jamaican-British heritage and her deep interest and personal involvement in the music and high/low melting-pot cultures of London. Family and community are at the heart of the company. Famously, her shows have been held in spaces such as the covered markets of Tottenham, a neighborhood cul-de-sac in Camden and the Torriano Primary School. Plus, her exploration of masculinity, the sexual edge of the collections and sensitivity to character and mood define her work.
In 2021, the label received investment from U.K. brand accelerator Tomorrow, acting as a collaborative and global licensing partner. In 2019, Martine Rose participated in the exhibition “Get Up, Stand Up Now,” a celebration of 50 years of Black British creativity at Somerset House in London. That year she was also nominated for the BFC’s Menswear Designer of the Year award and the Urban Lux Award. Martine Rose was nominated for the BFC’s British Menswear Designer of the Year award in 2018 and 2017, when she was in addition shortlisted for the LVMH prize and nominated for the ANDAM award for emerging designers.