New York Men’s Day (NYMD) kicked off the start of New York Fashion Week on Friday.
For its 17th bi-annual season, the event held in-person presentations from nine designers at Canoe Studios, located on the Westside of Manhattan.
Atelier Cillian, A.Potts, Clara Son, Nicholas Raefski, Perry Ellis America, Stan, Teddy Vonranson, The Academy New York, and William Frederick showcased their fall 2022 collections at the event.
Perry Ellis America
The highlight of the day came as Perry Ellis relaunched its “Perry Ellis America” contemporary sportswear line. The label’s latest debut sees VP of design Thomas Harvey at the creative helm, who was inspired by American landscapes – whether that be a beach in the Northeast, the urban cityscape or out in nature – for the fall 2022 season.
Perry Ellis America also signed on as the lead sponsor for NYMD this season. As part of the sponsorship, the brand hosted a competition among the other emerging designers at the event. The winner, selected by Harvey, will be awarded the chance to design a capsule collection for Perry Ellis.
Another standout from NYMD was much talked about label Teddy Vonranson. For his fall 2022 collection, Vonranson studied the irreverent approach that surfers, skiers, and snowboarders take to fashion. “I wanted to explore literal and metaphorical winter beaches: the die-hard surfers in the chilly winter waters of California and the ice capped breakers of northeastern beaches, the slopes of Lake Placid to Aspen to Mammoth where moguls and half popes emulate the waves,” he said in a statement.
Key pieces include an oversized double-breasted “great coat” offered in both charcoal and deep merlot alpaca and wool blend, a double-faced long car coat in pale pistachio and a cropped double-faced peacoat in bright violet. Vonranson, who also makes his own shoes, debuted a reimagined vintage-style ski boot with lug soles and a higher shaft in several colorways this season. During the walkthrough with FN, Vonranson discussed his upcoming Neiman Marcus debut as well as a healthy business with L.A. specialty retailer Ron Herman.
Designer Nicholas Raefski unveiled his sophomore collection, dubbed “Meet Me By The Bleachers,” on Friday. According to Raefski, this season is inspired by “notions of false nostalgia – yearnings for something you never actually owned nor experienced.”
“Going to high school in the 1970s is something I have always felt nostalgic for, despite being born a few decades too late to have experienced it,” Raefski said in a statement. “High school is all about archetypes and stereotypes; being put in a box. But when we grow up these boxes vanish, we find we cannot be bound by one group or idea. I enjoy the challenge of taking something that I know little about from the past, thinking about it in the present, and designing it for the future.”
What resulted was an 11-look collection, divided into four archetypal groups – the jocks, the nerds, the punks and the hippies. Key pieces include a “lava lamp” puffer jacket; a “Dad’s suit jacket”; a “Mick Jagger button down”; a fusion of a pair of classic leather rock pants with flowy disco pants. Each group pairs with shoes from Puma, Converse, and Dr. Martens.
The Academy New York
Another standout this season was The Academy New York, which made its official NYMD debut on Friday. Created by the former Obedient Sons founder and designer, Swaim Hutson, this season saw the introduction of menswear. According to Hutson, each collection consists of classic unisex pieces, tailor-made in the USA and Portugal. The label is known for its small production runs, limited stock, and local craftsmanship.
Designer Tristan Detwiler also returned for his second season at NYMD presenting his Stan label. According to Detwiler, this collection represents a significant creative evolution and reset for the brand. His paternal grandfather, Robert Stanley Detwiler, who served as a salesman in the 1950s served as his muse this season. And, for the first time Stan presented an evening gown, worn by Alva Chinn, the pioneering model who made her name on the runways of Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, and Chanel in the 1970’s. The collection was paired with footwear by Florsheim.
Aaron Potts also returned to NYMD to showcase his latest A.Potts genderless collection. Entitled “SKINFOLK: Skin Tones, Sculptural Shapes and Noir-Romantics,” the line features 27 looks and was styled with footwear from Florsheim for the lookbook shoot and from Sperry at the presentation.
Atelier Cillian also used Florsheim in its debut collection for the fall 2022 season. Dubbed “The Misdeeds of Dashwood,” designer Stephen MIkhail turned to the 18th-century Hellfire Club, drawing on the melding of the tailored attire worn by the Members of Parliament attending the club with an updated assortment of fabrics.
And Sperry also made a return to NYMD this season as a sponsor and showcased new collaborations with Los Angeles-based streetwear brand Pleasures, and Warm & Wonderful, the British knitwear label known for its iconic red sheep sweater worn by Princess Diana. The footwear brand also unveil its fall ‘22 Cloud collection as well as provided shoes for A.Potts and Perry Ellis America.