Milan Fashion Week Men’s is heating up this week with the strong return to shows this season, after years of digital events and presentations now in the rear-view mirror.
Dsquared2 opened the week as the first physical fashion show on Friday, followed by 1017 Alyx 9SM’s runway show and presentations from Kiton and Billionaire. Zegna, the week’s typical opener, will close the festivities on Monday night. In between, spring/summer 2023 collections from Fendi, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Gucci and more will be must-sees.
Below, a look at everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week Men’s spring/summer 2023 season, from buzzy runway moments, the best shoes at presentations around the city, and the top trends from showrooms, parties and more.
Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori debuted his spring 2023 collection on Monday night at the Italian luxury brand’s Oasi Zegna facility in the Piedmont region just outside of Milan.
Sartori drew inspiration from the Oasi for this collection, evoking a feeling of lightness that is permeated through workwear and activewear for a new take on uniform dressing. Shapes are loose and unstructured, barely touching the body: kimono-cut jackets, coats, shirts and tops that double as outerwear. The ironed pleat disappears from trousers that keep a firm volume and have rounded shapes. Bermuda shorts further free movement, while tailored blazers are freed from the necessity of having a collar.
The brand’s best-selling Triple Stitch Sneaker gets an update this season through a collaboration with Daniel Bailey, a London-based footwear designer and founder of Conceptkicks better known as Mr. Bailey.
As part of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Gucci unveiled its Ha Ha Ha collection on Monday, a line of menswear pieces designed in collaboration with Harry Styles and the brand’s star creative director Alessandro Michele.
Born from the duo’s well-known friendship and now years-long collaborative relationship on some of Styles’s best known looks (including his “Fine Line” album cover and many of his previous and current tour wardrobe), “Ha Ha Ha” was named for both the initials of the creatives’ first names (Harry and Alessandro) as well as a reference to the onomatopoeic sound of the laughing emojis that the two friends say have punctuated their text messages over the years.
A pair of white leather dress boots with a modest heel and a singular red heart on the side are emblematic of the Gucci-filled wardrobe of Styles’s current tour looks, including and especially the red-and-white, heart-printed jumpsuit that the musician wore to his Wembley Stadium show this weekend.
Designer Jonathan Anderson presented his eponymous spring/summer 2023 menswear and resort 2023 women’s collections on Sunday in Milan. The quirky assortment featured typical “non-wearable” objects – like a skateboard, a handlebar, a door hinge, and a pair of working gloves – “crashed” into tops and sweatshirts. The clever pieces were all grounded by the designer’s footwear. Anderson updates his mule style this season, trading the chainlink with a nameplate. There is also a new sneaker, boot, and platform slide.
Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi debuted his newest collection for the brand in Milan on Sunday.
New footwear styles include the Gommino Bubble – a softer and more prominently shaped evolution of the signature Gommino. The shoe is reimagined with a metal T Timeless buckle and a sole in which the traditional rubber studs become oversized and feature in vibrant colors.
The Tod’s 1T sneakers feature soles in micro rubber studs sport with new combinations of fabric and color in either matching or contrasting hues, and the new Double Stripe shoe provides a new take on hand-crafted rope shoes, its multi-layered sole features a two-toned combination of rubber and leather edges.
Canali presented its spring/summer 2023 collection in Milan on Sunday. Inspired by the Italian Riviera – Liguria, to be precise – the collection connects the realms of formal and leisurewear in a way that reflects how we actually pack and pair the clothes in our wardrobes.
Powdery pink, sand and sage hues of the sea-facing fisherman houses appear on suiting and shirting. They are countered by terracotta outerwear and balanced by ivory and off-white trousers, creating a medley of separates that can be mixed and matched.
As for shoes, new canvas, suede and leather sneaker bridges the long Ligurian lunch and late-night divide; calf-skin sandals, in both plain and intrecciato finishes, have city and vacation appeal; and Canali’s favorite loafers and suede slip-ons come in sun-sherbet shades this season.
Prada showed its spring/summer ’23 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Sunday, continuing to keep hemlines short on its men’s silhouettes, with short leather shorts paired with Cuban-heeled black leather boots with a slight Western edge.
Etro debuted its spring/summer 2023 collection in Milan on Sunday. The collection, dubbed “The Wild Power of Poetry,” explored a more sensual Etro man with light, see-through fabrics in earth tones. While many of the models were barefoot at the show, the shoes this season featured a rope sole in a range of new sandals as well as an espadrille style.
Santoni hosted its men’s collection preview in Milan on Sunday with a garden full of its newest footwear range. Called “The Journey,” this season’s line features loafers, lace-ups, and sneakers in fine materials, flexible constructions and beautiful colors.
Brand new this season is the Double Buckle Sneaker, which features Santoni’s double buckle detail redesigned in a contemporary version. To achieve this, the outline of a double buckle is used as a contrast color block on the side of the sneaker upper. The style was worn by special guest Jonathan Bailey, of Netflix’s Bridgerton, who told FN, “This new sneaker is everything I love in style: taking a classic and making it more modern.” The British actor, who said he personally gravitates to classic sneaker styles we all know and love (without naming names) in his everyday wardrobe. “I first came to Milan fashion week 7 years ago, so this is my second go, and it’s been brilliant,” Bailey told FN.
CEO Giuseppe Santoni added, “With this collection, we wanted to tell the story, the journey, our brand has taken from the heritage of Santoni, that we all know, into a more younger, contemporary Santoni like you see here in the Senato Garden.”
Designer Philipp Plein hosted a Burning Man-style event in Milan on Saturday to present his new Plein Sport collection.
As well as showcasing 40 looks on mannequins, the event featured 10 vignettes highlighting the newest sneaker range from the brand as well as an NFT and the brand new Plain Truck – which the designer told FN will drive around Europe starting in August as the brand’s first mobile pop-up store.
According to Plein, he is also planning on opening over 20 stores all over the world in the coming years – even testing some as self-service stores. “While we will still need minimal staff at the store so that customers can try on shoes, this new concept will be highly interactive for the customer,” Plein told FN. “We will be testing these in some of our mall-based locations and may plan a bigger role out if we are pleased with the results.”
Marcelo Burlon celebrated his 10th anniversary with a stadium show on Saturday in Milan. The collection featured patchwork, engineered pieces, sun-dried tie-dyes, washed canvas and chunky knits – all urban staples the designer is known. The main shoe in the show was the Ticinella, a skateboard-inspired vulcanized sneaker Burlon launched in spring/summer 2022 show. (Editor’s note: Birkenstocks and vintage cowboy boots seen in the show were purchased and not part of the collection.)
Donatella Versace presented her spring/summer 2023 collection back at home at the Versace mansion on Via Gesu in Milan on Saturday. She presented a collection modeled by the sons of previous Versace model icons including Mark Vanderloo, Helena Christensen. and Carla Bruni. Oversized silhouettes mixed with skin-tight bodysuits for men this season. The Italian luxury brand also reintroduced its signature diamond slashes in pants and tops, a technic that was started by Gianni Versace many years ago. As for shoes, the signature diamond slashes continue in a new sneaker silhouette. Boots and loafers – some in metallic—round out the selection of shoes.
Fendi presented it’s spring/summer ’23 menswear collection on June 18 at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, a colorful line of travel-inspired looks that also included statement footwear such as cowhide skate sneakers with terry lacing, lug-sole giant O’Lock buckle loafers and fringed denim or suede moccasins, plus a new slip-on slide done with a super-sized inflatable double “F” motif.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana presented its spring/summer ’23 menswear collection on June 18 during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Title “Re-Edition,” the brand looked to its archives to find some of its most iconic looks from the ’90s and 2000s. Some pieces, labeled “Re-Edition” were actual archival pieces with distinctive labels, while others were recreated in homage to the brand’s own Y2K aesthetic. See key looks from the runway here, in photos.
This season, designer Giorgio Armani’s younger contemporary label takes the vacation spirit to a new level, with shirts and soft trousers taking center stage in the collection.
The shapes barely touch the body, allowing it to breathe during the summer months. Bold details – slits, vertical openings, cuts – reveal the skin, adding a note of vibrant sensuality that continues in shortened shorts and overalls that almost entirely reveal the legs. Pleated trousers caress the figure, while deconstructed blazers reaffirm a cornerstone of Armani style, here in new jacquard models.
As for footwear, a new molded slip-on style sneaker was introduced as well as a new leather boot.
The Roman brand’s new spring/summer 2023 collection is another foray into summer nonchalance, featuring soft tailoring in breezy fabrics. Unveiled on Saturday inside a hidden garden in Milan, everything is soft and light and meant to move with the wind. Standout items include the seersucker suit with matching belt, shirt and bucket hat as well as the introduction of a women’s tuxedo look.
All of the looks were paired with round toe loafers, leather sandals, or the brand-new crocodile leather loafer.
The Italian luxury brand is not afraid of color this season. In fact, Brunello is using a wider range of color than he typically does in his menswear range. Ginger-hued red, salmon orange, sunflower yellow and a wide range of light blues such as periwinkle, Oxford and ultramarine combine with the brand’s signature array of greys, blues and light beiges that represent the cornerstone of the collection.
As for footwear, the brand is finding success in the category after several years of growing and placing emphasis on its shoes. Standouts include the range of casual-meets-dress shoes, as seen in a pair of tassel loafers in chocolate brown suede, double-strap suede sandals, and new sneaker styles.
Boss x Khaby
Hugo Boss’ Boss label celebrated the launch of its new collection with TikTok star Khaby Lame a special event in Milan on Friday night.
The capsule is comprised of all-black styles with leather details and a signature logo depicting Khaby’s likeness. The pieces include a T-shirt, hoodie, and varsity jacket. To round out the collection, a doll of the social media star co-created by Khaby will be released on his social media channels. It is designed to be both a standalone accessory and an attachment that can be snapped onto the hoodie.
Designer Philipp Plein presented the new spring/summer 2023 collection for his elevated tailored brand Billionaire on Friday at the Four Seasons hotel in Milan.
Designed for the gentleman who is ready to embrace the warm summer vibes, opulent silk robes and pajamas are offered alongside deluxe leather travel accessories and tailored clothing offered in bright hues.
Most of the footwear styles this season are carry-overs from previous collections, updated to reflect spring 2023’s identity. According to Plein, “you will not see any sporty, running sneakers in this collection, only loafers, simple white lace-up sneakers and casual dress shoes.”
The Italian luxury brand showcased its spring/summer 2023 with an evening presentation at the Palazzo on Via Pontaccio in Milan on Friday night. The evening’s installation presented 32 men’s and 12 women’s outfits, which are a sneak peek of the forthcoming women’s spring/summer 2023 collection.
Red is the main color of the setting: from the light design of the venue to the glass walls of the structure containing the outfits. Everything refers to the Red Dot, the graphic sign embroidered on every garment, which now lends its name to a cultural container to promote Kiton’s heritage.
According to Kiton, a series of Red Dot-branded initiatives will take off, with worldwide traveling events that will promote tailoring, patronage, looking towards the future, and sustainability.
1017 Alyx 9SM
1017 Alyx 9SM designer Matthew M. Williams is amping up his footwear offering for spring 2023.
Following the developments of fall/winter 2022, this season’s collection features the Mono Boot in an expanded range of experimental colors and high tech yet artisanal special treatments.
This season also marks the introduction of the Aria sneaker in both high and low variations. This sneaker uses the knowhow acquired during the development of the Mono range to create a thick statement sole that is visually impactful while simultaneously incredibly lightweight. The signature sole is then mounted on a lightweight upper allowing for high breathability and ease of wear during the summer heat.
Dsquared2 gets quirky for its spring/summer 2023 men’s collection. Multi-color surfer prints, crochet and knits with flowers and stripes mix with tailoring and biker wear detailed with Honda’s iconic logo – part of a collaboration with the motorcycle company for the collection.
Also, an homage to the Bob Marley Foundation is found in prints and patches on outerwear, bags and T-shirts. Dsquared2 DNA gets tubed: maxi shorts in checked nylon, tie-dye shirts and hoodies are paired with flared ‘70s denim pants and soft leather ringed sandals. Tech sandals, leather sandals, white boot shoes and biker mode boots are also seen throughout the collection.