Despite the wrench that the Omicron variant has thrown in plans for winter events, men’s fashion month is still on. As the fall ’22 season begins, here is everything you need to know, from the buzzy runway moments to the best shoes and trends from showrooms, events, collaborations and more. Stay tuned for highlights from Pitti Uomo and Milan Men’s Fashion Month to Paris Men’s Fashion Week and New York Men’s Day.
Isabel Marant Channels Kurt Cobain in Fall Collection
PARIS: Crafted from unexpected blends of prints, colors and fabrics, the Isabel Marant’s fall 2022 men’s collection is nonchalant. As a nod to the ‘90s and the legacy of Kurt Cobain, the label uses baggy silhouettes, check shirts tied around the waist, and washed denim with versatile stripes.
Pieces are layered together, and shapes are overlapping for a urban look. Out in the streets, the Isabel Marant man wears a pair of “Bumkeeh,” the men’s version of the brand’s best-selling “Balskee” wedge sneaker.
Geared for chilly weather, this steppe-colored apparel is exalted by the introduction of color-blocked activewear pieces where royal blue, bright yellow, mint green and fiery red collide.
Junn.J Looks to the Jet-Setting ‘60s and ‘70s for Fall
PARIS: Photographs of jet-setters at the airport in the 1960s and ‘70s inspired Junn.J’s fall/winter 2022 collection. Expressing wishful thinking of traveling freely over this continuing pandemic, Junn.J’s latest line was aptly photographed at Seoul’s Incheon international airport.
As for the collection itself, quilting is used this season to express volume and rich silhouette, applied to not only on outerwear but also over a maxi-dress, a skirt, an MA-1 jacket and hoodies. Reinterpreting and applying the elements of CWU-8/P military parka into various items, the collection is styled with youthfulness and cool with a color palette of black, brown and deep green, using over-dyeing and blue denim as point colors.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Unveils Latest Sneaker With Wakouwa for Fall
PARIS: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s fall/winter 2022 collection premiered online on Thursday. In a video directed by Kyotaro Hayashi, each piece of the collection is explored like artwork, capturing the garments from many angles and varying distances.
This collection, dubbed “A Work of Arc,” adapts the structure, fabric, and frame of a tent into a new way of clothes-making. According to the brand, the folds of large arcs made in the pleated fabric become the structure of the garments, giving a sense of fluidity and roundness. This series features a top and a jacket with arched folds going around the body from the back down to the cuffs, and pants with the folds wrapping around the legs.
As for shoes, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake has teamed up again with Wakouwa on the fifth iteration of their “Deck’N Court” sneaker. The low-cut design for this season features thin piping and perforated details on the shoe tongue. The shoes are available in two colors: white for a clean and simple look and brown for an understated style.
OAMC’s Fall Collection Is a ‘Study of Nature’
PARIS: OAMC’s fall/winter 2022 collection began as a study of nature. Layers of tree bark and moss, floral colors and shapes, and watercolor motifs in the sky at dusk are reflected in man-made translations of functional garment patterning. Hand-knit undulating jacquards echo a jagged landscape, the trace of a human hand evident in the attached patchwork of contrast threads. Cold dye cottons, with their ‘maltinto’ effect, leave reminders of water. Direct embroideries, featuring singular flowers, add fragility to robust coats and jackets. A wool jacquard draws the strata of a rock face.
The second season of OAMC Re:Work amplifies the artisanal approach through dye, detail, and shape. Ready-made items are taken apart, refitted, adjusted, constructed, and overdyed. The exploration of military field jacket liners has a strong presence; lined with wool and overdyed. New garment shapes are created using vintage military blankets printed with camouflage motifs, also overdyed. Wool liners are overdyed and re-shaped, and vintage Swiss military shirts and trousers are re-shaped and overdyed to create relevant forms.
As for footwear, boots and shoes are strong-soled, with soft leather uppers and few construction lines: pure, strong forms anchored by OAMC’s contrast outsole clip.
AMI Returns to the Runway in Paris
PARIS: Creative director Alexandre Mattiussi is embracing AMI’s roots as he unveils the brand’s fall/winter 2022 men’s and women’s collection in Paris on Wednesday night. Held at Palais Brongniart, the physical show marked the return of the brand to the catwalk, with a live audience, after a two-year intermission.
Paris remains a steady source of inspiration for Mattiussi, whose concept for the show was to replicate the city’s metro. “I was very much inspired by the fascinating combination of styles and people that you see every day in the métro: this is a perfect place to observe, to feel the social and cultural diversity of the city, to experience the zeitgeist, to watch trends develop,” said Mattiussi in a statement. “I like to think of it as an urban ballet, where everyone, regardless of age, origins and social status, mingles and coexists in ephemeral, fortuitous encounters. This is how I imagined this quintessential Paris, this elevated reality: it is an optimistic collection, for the Parisians.”
The collection itself is quintessential AMI. In the free-spirited color palette, prints and motives; in the matching of rich textures and eccentric fabrics, lush faux fur and leather-printed fake leopard and python. Volumes are explored through a series of layered, oversized outerwear. Consciously focusing on AMI’s wardrobe, the collection encompasses a rich variety of silhouettes, including strong unisex pieces, together with tailored masculine shapes and more delicate, body-hugging feminine ones.
A range of precious accessories completes the collection and underlines its spirit including the Le Voulez-Vous, AMI’s newest “it-bag.” Its sharp lines and symmetry lend to sophisticated features like supple crinkled leather (in classical black, burgundy or white tones), a double chain and an AMI de Cœur clasp.
Church’s Debuts ‘Havant’ Boot for Fall
MILAN: For its fall/winter 2022 men’s collection, Church’s focused on the launch of a new derby lace-up boot made from soft matte calf leather.
Called the “Havant,” this shoe’s slightly rounded shape – stemming from its traditional Norwegian stitching – makes it “extremely versatile” and “suitable for any occasion,” according to the footwear brand.
This new Goodyear welted style also features a rubber sole that is heat embossed with the ‘Church’s & Co.’ logo, reminiscent of Church’s historic “Shanghai” model.
This new style will be available in a classic black or in a burnt or ebony hue. The new Havant boot is slated to launch in June 2022.
The Party Goes on for JW Anderson Despite In-Person Show Cancellation
MILAN: JW Anderson unveiled its collection with a spirited video on Sunday during Milan Fashion Week Men’s after the British fashion label opted to cancel its physical show due to the spread of the Omicron variant.
The collection was inspired by “the night out that never happened,” said designer Jonathan Anderson, who was thinking about all the club kids stuck inside with nowhere to go but online in the age of COVID.
“Precious moments of happiness collide in a frivolous fantasy of unbridled fun,” Anderson noted as he introduced a fall/winter 2022 men’s collection that “celebrates dressing as an exuberant act that crosses the barriers of gender and taste.”
The proudly masculine and the wickedly feminine are united this season in a “kaleidoscopic blur” of bright hues and metallic flashes, the brand said in its collection statement. The crop top trend seen in some spring 2022 menswear collection makes an appearance in this collection. Accessories bring silliness and naivety to a ridiculous level in the shapes of various animals like elephants and pigeons. And the shoes remind us of kindergarten, with several pairs of Mary Jane’s seen throughout as well as metallic takes on the designer’s Chain Loafer.
Tod’s References Art and Italian Ingenuity for Fall
MILAN: The Rivoli Castle, near Turin, served as the stage of Tod’s fall/winter 2022 men’s collection. The historical setting highlighted the convergence of the traditional and experimentational elements in Tod’s latest collection which referenced art and Italian ingenuity.
For ready-to-wear, men’s classics are updated for versatility and ease of use. Bombers and hems sport a fur-effect fabric obtained from a new wool weaving technique. The same fabric also features on the linings of loose-fitting parkas and on the lapels of peacoats. The shirt jacket, distinguishable by its iconic patch pocket and leather trims sporting the hot-stamped logo, also affirms its key role as an everyday classic.
As for shoes, Tod’s W.G. is an updated take on the Winter Gommino. Featuring bolder, striking proportions, its higher sole stands out even more against the uppers. The refined materials of this signature Tod’s model contrast with a lived-in leather effect, for a more relaxed masculine appearance. In particular, the new offerings include the brushed, glossy models that make it a real “must have” for the season.
The Gommino is bolder than ever before this season, with visible soles featuring much larger rubber pebbles, in a natural evolution of the original shape. The new sneaker represents “the ultimate expression of experimentation with technical materials combined with artisanal know-how, such as the long stitches that are characteristic of saddlery,” the brand said. Suede, technical materials, and fine leathers blend to create this running shoe style.
Brunello Cucinelli Is at a ‘Crossroads’ This Season
MILAN: Brunello Cucinelli unveiled its “Crossroads” fall/winter 2022 menswear collection on Saturday. This season, the Italian luxury brand is continuing its exploration of what it does so well – mixing elegant tailoring with relaxed essentials for a refreshingly modern looking wardrobe.
Brunello Cucinelli said that its newest collection is inspired by “an ever-transforming urban world, a crossroads where different ideas of daily style intersect, where culture branches out from tradition according to modern-day needs, welcoming freedom and at the same time embracing the past.”
The label’s signature neutral color palette of refined hues of beige, grey and blue continue this season. Bright carrot orange and pomegranate red are this season’s accent colors.
New coats and peacoats merge elegant sartorial lines with modern leisure elements. Outerwear and down jackets with longer lines become more present this season as does soft and modern relaxed trousers.
The brand’s footwear collection sees the development of new models made in the “English tradition” and are inspired by a sporty and outdoor lifestyle.
Santoni Goes for a Walk in the Mountains for Fall
MILAN: Much like the ready-to-wear we’ve seen so far this season, Italian luxury footwear brand Santoni is mixing formal and sporty elements for its fall/winter 2022 men’s collection.
Unveiled on Sunday as part of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Santoni’s latest collection sees bold silhouettes in the growing hybrid style category of dress-meets-casual loafer and derby models with lug soles, as well as a few outdoor boot options. Models this season are made of leather, nylon, and wool fabrics that are rubberized, shaded, or patinated throughout the range. Expect to see a color palette of warm shades such as brown and yellow ochre.
In its collection notes, Santoni said that the collection was inspired by a walk in the mountains and is “characterized by an intense sense of contact with nature and of freedom.”
Canali Looks to 1930s Art Deco Style for Fall
MILAN: Canali draws inspiration from the art deco style of the 1930s for its new fall/winter 2022 collection.
In a statement about the new collection, Canali said it was inspired by the sober and exclusive lines of that period – adapting military-inspired silhouettes and colors into a new, elegant context. It is also easy to imagine men of this time wearing elegant pinstripes, typical of the ‘30s, with classic wide lapels and hand-embroidered silk eyelets.
Canali’s modern gentleman opts for refined modern-day separates, with which he can set off his creativity through shirts and ties. These are accompanied by new items such as the jacket with knitted neck and cuffs, which combines the softness of knitwear and the cleanness of tailored shapes. Or the new interpretation of the safari jacket in cashmere, to be worn with trousers and ties to create an outfit that speaks of a new form of tailoring.
As for shoes, Canali makes a strong statement this season with derbies featuring grip soles and classic evening shoes like a velvet slip-on with a two-tone rubber sole.
Kiton’s Fall Collection Is for Those Who Want to Get Back to Traveling
MILAN: Kiton is moving full steam ahead in its mission to blur the line between formalwear and leisurewear as the storied Italian luxury brand acknowledges that men’s wardrobes are much different since the on-set of the pandemic.
The label’s new fall/winter 2022 collection is a monochromatic exploration between shades of brown, moss green, burgundy, blue and grey that fades into black. According to a collection statement from Kiton, the wardrobe is entirely designed for those who want to go back to travelling with maximum comfort, and even the suits, derived from the company’s heritage, have jackets that weight like shirts and trousers with drawstrings, made with the finest wools as thin as 12.9 microns.
This season, Kiton’s shoe highlight is a Norwegian top-stitch take on an “all terrain” boot with rubber lug soles. Along with this style, the success of its cashmere sneakers continues with a new color palette and soft white leather embellished with hand-stitched details
1017 Alyx 9SM Debuts New Injected Boot for Fall
MILAN: Creative director Matthew M. Williams is back for his latest collection for 1017 Alyx 9SM. Dubbed “Fade,” the fall/winter 2022 men’s and women’s collection features a significant focus on shearling in a range of silhouettes and colors. The oversized unisex shearling jackets have been realized in a unique range of bright collection colors and feature reversed 3D construction detailing
This season features highly structural outerwear, rendered in PVC usually used in the making of accessories. Featured in jackets, coats, sleeveless vests, the 3D form is constructed to sit off the back giving the wearer an exaggerated silhouette.
The latest 1017 Alyx 9SM collection also sees the introduction of a new range of tactical/cargo pant styles featuring external 3D sliced pockets with a new wider leg silhouette for men and women.
As for footwear, the evolution of the Mono for fall ‘22 sees the development of a new single polymer injected boot. The ultralight boot creates a new exaggerated silhouette that forms the base of the men’s show looks for fall 22. Features an elevated insole for ultra-comfort and ergonomically designed upper. Plus, the development of the mono sneaker high is an all-leather lace up evolved from the low sneaker introduced in spring ’22 on the mono sole.
Dsquared2 Explores the Outdoors in Its Milan Return
MILAN: After two years dressing at home, Dsquared2 makes a grand return to the runway for the men’s collections in Milan.
This season encourages Dsquared2 enthusiasts to explore the outdoors and “get high on life and rule the world as you discover it one mountain at a time,” the brand said in a statement.
The first look of the collection features a sleeping bag padded coat is wrapped over a boxy striped knit, a check flannel shirt, kilt and furry retro-stye Alpine boots. The rest of the line-up is Dsquared2 DNA filtered through outdoorsy, colorful and luxury pieces.
Boots and accessories are inspired by gear for fly fishing, expeditions up icy mountains, or hanging on a line between rocks. Suede duckboots, technical hiking boots fitted with crampons, backpacks embroidered with patches and detailed with carabiners, and harnesses are meant to be worn over the body. And for after hours in the log cabin, fluffy mohair socks and clogs.
Zegna Continues Its Sartorial Reset for Fall 2022
MILAN: Fresh off the heels of its rebrand and IPO, Zegna showed the first glimpse of its future with the unveiling of its winter 2022 collection during Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Friday.
The Italian luxury brand’s latest collection, dubbed “A Path Worth Taking,” is the continuation of the sartorial reset, Zegna initiated one year ago. According to Zegna, the collection assesses what a contemporary style should look and feel like, heralding an evolved idea of formality that seamlessly switches from the great outdoors to life indoors.
Interesting shapes and items like the trapeze-shaped coats worn over technical silk inner shells; ripstop anoraks made of wool; and fine leathers cut into shirts bonded in cashmere, worn either alone or under blazers, while pullovers and thick jumpers are meant as outerwear. The divide between inside and outside, layers and outerwear, is blurred and continuously turned. Tabarro coats and jackets, utilitarian jackets, parkas, anoraks and pullovers, trousers that taper at the hem round out the assortment.
“I keep looking at the world through the Zegna lens,” Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori said in a statement. “The reality we live in today requires adaptability; it asks us all to be fluid. Translating this idea into clothing means building a language of shapes and textures that grows and consolidates over time, matching the needs of the moment. The notion of the hybrid is one I keep exploring, because there’s progress in erasing staid categories.”
Pitti Uomo Sees Rise in Attendance From June 2021 Show Despite Coronavirus Concerns
FLORENCE: Spirits were high at this week’s Pitti Uomo despite coronavirus concerns. The bi-annual menswear trade fair took place over three days in Florence, down from its pre-pandemic norm of four days of exhibition and events.
Pitti Uomo is estimating that a total of 8,000 visitors joined the fair, with about 4,000 of those visitors accounting for buyers. This figure is up from the June 2021 edition which saw a total of 6,000 visitors in its first in-person event since the pandemic began. Although there was an uptick in attendance this season, the last pre-pandemic Pitti Uomo, which took place in Jan. 2020, saw 36,000 visitors.
But ultimately, Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, was pleased with the turnout this season. “We are happy with the way things went at the Fortezza da Basso, from Tuesday to today,” Napoleone said in a statement.
“Firstly, I want to thank the exhibitors who believed in our work and our ability to organize the fair in safety without compromising our consolidated standards of selection and quality,” Napoleone added. “Together with the new collections, they brought great energy and passion. I also thank the Italian and international buyers who decided to travel in this particularly complex moment and have done so with the right spirit, cautious but calm and determined.”
New York Men’s Day To Return In Person For February
NEW YORK: New York Men’s Day (NYMD) is returning for its 17th bi-annual menswear event in February.
Presented by Perry Eliis America, NYMD will hold in-person presentations from nine designers on Friday, Feb. 11 (the same day that New York Fashion Week will kick off its fall ’22 season), across morning and evening time slots. Returning to Canoe Studios, located on the Westside of Manhattan, NYMD will debut the fall 2022 collections from Atelier Cillian, A.Potts, Clara Son, Nicholas Raefski, Perry Ellis America, Stan, Teddy Vonranson, The Academy New York, and William Frederick.
Sperry will also return as a sponsor and will showcase new collaborations with Los Angeles-based streetwear brand Pleasures, and Warm & Wonderful, the British knitwear label known for its iconic red sheep sweater. The footwear brand will also unveil its fall ‘22 Cloud collection.
“After the success of NYMD this past September, we have solidified the importance and need for live, in-person events and how to conduct them safely,” said Erin Hawker, founder of NYMD and Agentry PR, in a statement. “With the support of our sponsors and partners who also value our mission of fostering new and emerging talent, New York Men’s Day continues to be a platform for creatives to be discovered. We aim to inspire the fashion community, bring innovation and design into reality, and be an outlet for individuals to voice their point of views.”
In addition to the physical event, all nine brands will also feature their fall/winter 2022 collection lookbook images and/or videos on the CFDA’s Runway360 digital platform.