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5 Top Luxury Retailers on the Shoes That Ruled Paris & Milan + The Trends You Will See Everywhere for Spring ’23

After a jam-packed European collections season in Milan and Paris, top retailers weigh in on their favorite collections, defining trends and new talent to watch.

Rickie De Sole, Women’s Designer Fashion and Editorial Director, Nordstrom 

Top Collections:

“Gucci had a strong offering this season with something for just about everyone — from covetable crystal mules to beaded sandals to sharp white summer boots. Loewe’s most-talked-about shoe, the deflated balloons, caught everyone’s attention but the real star was the new pump.”

Key Trend Stories:

“The pump is back. We saw designers update the classic with new toe shapes and colors. We’re seeing a shift away from sneakers to softer flats like ballet shoes and simple heeled sandals. Platforms are in — from the Y2K moments at Fendi to Loewe’s clog styles to platform sandals at Dior and Chloe. Sculptured heels offered novelty on the runways at Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Dries Van Noten.”

New Names/Emerging Talent: 

Maximilian [Davis] at Ferragamo. Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally is another one to watch.”

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 23: Models walk the runway of the Gucci Twinsburg Show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 on September 23, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci)
Rickie De Sole said Gucci’s spring ’23 footwear offering has “something for everyone.”
CREDIT: Getty Images for Gucci

Helen David, Chief Merchant of Luxury, Kurt Geiger 

Top Collections: 

“Rene Caovilla was one of the strongest collections. D’Accori is singing to its own tune in a colorful, fun, on-point way. Amina Muaddi is evolving nicely.”

Key Trend Stories: 

“Sculptural heels were everywhere, from understated at Dries and Loewe to the power heels at D’Accori and Alaïa. Denim as a fabrication was seen across almost every collection, from casual and cool at Coperni, Marine Serre and Paris Texas to embellished and dressy at Amina, Rene Caovilla and Bruno Frisoni. Mules have been around for a few seasons now but have firmly replaced the pump as the basic. School-girl vibes were prevalent, with Mary Janes and ballet slippers staging a major comeback. The Western trend has spread from contemporary to designer. The trend of women wanting to wear very masculine oversized suits has spilt over into footwear with dandy brogues. Lastly, flowers ruled the roost.”

New Names/Emerging Talent: 

“I love Nensi Dojaka. This collection was understated, while still being ultra-feminine, with strass and floral embellishment. Carel is geeky, fun and chic at the same. Coperni’s mules, denim, platforms and sculptural heels were great.”

Hollie Harding, Buying Manager, Non-Apparel, Browns 

Top Collections: 

“The much-loved ballet-flat trend continues into spring ’23, and [the style] was spotted at the likes of Khaite and Miu Miu. On the other
end of the scale, we have also seen a tougher and heavier approach to footwear, especially for a spring season. Sharp points were seen at Givenchy and Courrèges, leather sock sandals at Miu Miu — and the chunky Mary Janes from Prada were a personal favorite. It was a sharp move away from the bright satins and all-out party footwear we saw last season.” 

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Mary Janes on the spring ’23 Prada runway.
CREDIT: Getty

New Names/Emerging Talent:

“We’re particularly excited that our emerging ready-to-wear brands, Paula Canovas del Vas and KNWLS, are moving into footwear.”

Roopal Patel, SVP, Fashion Director, Saks 

Top Collections: 

Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Chanel, Valentino and Rene Caovilla.

Key Trend Stories: 

“Sculptural wedges and sandals with metal hardware heels felt directional at Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Ferragamo and Dries van Noten. We saw a great lineup of innovative flatforms, including the floral anthurium motif paired back to a woven-colored raffia bottom at Loewe, the sporty lug soles at Chloe, and cutout styles at A.W.A.K.E Mode. The platform continues to be a key trend, seen this season in new fabrications and treatments, including Lucite at Valentino, colorful patent leather at Paul Andrew and full-on crystal at Balenciaga.”

New Names/Emerging Talent:

Alevi Milano, Piferi and Nodaleto

Jodi Kahn, VP of Luxury Fashion, Neiman Marcus

Top Collections: 

“The creativity and innovation at Loewe was incredible. Bottega Veneta delivered a standout collection and presentation. Distinguished accents such as the iconic intrecciato weave and the use of metallics in updated feminine shapes with mixed heel heights are exactly what our customer is looking for.” 

Key Trend Stories: 

“Platform heels continue to evolve and impress, as seen throughout Versace and Valentino’s collections. Simple stiletto sandals are trending, along with allover jewels and embellishments at Roger Vivier, Sergio Rossi and Gianvito Rossi. Chanel’s assortment of shoes literally sparkled. The collection included a variety of styles — all with clear crystal embellishments that are sure to add an element of glamour to any outfit.”

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Loewe’s new balloon shoes for spring summer ’23.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Loewe

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