Across fashion month, one thing has been clear: skin is in. It’s a message that Chanel also transmitted at its own spring ’22 ready-to-wear show at Paris Fashion Week with a collection heavy on swimwear, high hemlines and navel-baring ensembles.
For the new collection, creative director Virginie Viard turned to Chanel in the ’90s, resurrecting the vintage raised runway and putting photographers front and center (including now-resident Chanel photogs Inez & Vinoodh). She also nodded to Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 1993 collection for the brand, when he sent Chanel-branded briefs and other underwear down the runway for the first time. Viard’s own interpretation came in the form of bikinis, sports bras, unitards, crop tops and knitted briefs, outfitted with a headband here or a chain-accented waist belt there.
But Viard didn’t stop there. Elsewhere in the collection, Chanel’s signature tweed suits also got the short story, done in miniskirt silhouettes or the aforementioned briefs, coordinated with matching knitted crop tops and cardigans. The brand’s now-infamous bike shorts came back with tweed jackets and were even layered underneath skirts. A Chanel logo crop top was paired with super-low-rise trousers, with strappy tweed briefs peeking out from the waistband — another indication that Y2K fashion is officially making its comeback.
With all of the skin-baring looks, Viard kept footwear simple but statement making. Heels were done in a reasonable height, but both block and fluted heels leant some sturdy punctuation to the moment. Fluted heels were modest and included a Mary Jane strap, while block heels were paired with a tried-but-true platform and ankle strap. A simple pair of black patent leather ballet flats were accented with delicate logo-and-chain anklets.
The flared heels and the buckles of the Mary-Janes and sandals “remind us of pirate shoes,” Viard said in the show notes. “I always like to have something romantic. A touch of mystery.”