Fashion month’s latest stop is in London, and there are a handful of trends that are standing out. Here, FN rounds up the biggest trends of the London Fashion Week fall ’20 shows.
Whether you dip your toes into the trend via your accessories or choose total immersion you can guarantee your fall wardrobe will be big on metallics.
Erdem’s show presented in London’s National Portrait Gallery was a study in silver from sheeny metallic silks and guipure lace, through sequinned flatform sandals, to winged eye makeup like the mythical horse Pegasus. Even the pixie-cut wigs, created with hairstylist Antony Turner, were doused in silver spray paint. The collection, titled “The Age of Silver,” was inspired by society photographer Cecil Beaton, the subject of the NPG exhibition, “Bright Young Things” opening March 10. During his early career, Beaton created makeshift sets from reflective silver foil. Erdem told FN that his open-toe sandals were a contemporary take on the peep-toe shoes popular in the 1920s. “We’re entering the new ’20, the 2020s,” he said, “so it all felt really apt.”
At Preen the cracked gold boots took their cue from the gold leaf of picture frames and the gilded architecture of Venice – setting for the ’70s film adaptation of Daphne du Maurier’s “Don’t Look Now” which was the collection catalyst. Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Braganza visited the Italian city during the Venice Biennale art fair and the boots were also designed to look like a piece of modern art. “The sole was extended and twisted at the toe to give a feeling of surrealism,” Thornton told FN. In keeping with the brand’s commitment to further incorporate sustainability into their collections – think georgettes made from recycled plastic waste, biodegradable Corozo nut buttons and a new dead stock range of unique pieces in collaboration with British woollen mills – the boots were made from vegan leather too. gold stars all round.
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Designers at London Fashion Week went big for fall ’20, playing up the volumes on shoes and garments alike. For her ongoing footwear collaboration with Roksanda Ilincic, Mary Alice Malone of Malone Souliers did puffed up boots to balance out the volumes of the balloon sleeves and cuffs in the designer’s ready-to-wear. They finished just below the knee and came topped off with an elaborate hand-knotted leather twist. Christopher Kane’s collection featured bulbous silicone injected details on his footwear and accessories. And once you realised that the starting point for this collection was the triangle bra, they started to bear an uncanny resemblance to breast implants. Meanwhile J.W. Anderson souped up his outerwear with huge tweed trapeze shaped coats and giant puffed up leather collars to match.
Diamonds & Pearls
London in the throes of Storm Dennis was looking wet and gloomy but the runways were awash with sparkle thanks to some glittering partnerships with Swarovski crystal. Michael Halpern’s dresses featured crystal flowers blooming out of lame and silk jacquard. A highlight of his ongoing Christian Louboutin shoe collaboration was a pair of striped boots with dazzling crystal fringing that swung and glittered with every step. At Richard Quinn, crystal trims embellished the designer’s signature prints and were even used to create entire looks inspired by the London Pearly Queen and King tradition spearheaded by nineteenth-century market traders. Simone Rocha too peppered her collection with pearls from headpieces down to footwear where she toughened up delicate strands with metal chains.
On the first day of London Fashion Week, designers put the notion of sustainability front and center from color to concept. In the footwear department, green was order of the day. Kiko Kostadinov kicked things off with their ongoing Asics collaboration featuring sneakers with two-tone green soles. Richard Malone’s Malone Souliers collab was all about the chunky platform boot, opening with a delectable mossy shade and Matty Bovan’s emerald suede pixie boots done in collaboration with Gina were another winner. On the eco-friendly side, Mulberry transported its carbon-neutral Somerset factories to its Bond Street flagship. Throughout the week, customers can watch Mulberry craftspeople create its newly launched sustainable leather Portobello Tote. The brand has also unveiled a “Green Charter,” which includes commitments such as a lifetime bag restoration service and exchange programme. Finally, Ashley Williams showed upcycled samples and dead stock alongside photographic prints celebrating the designer’s favorite things — not the least of which was footwear — and one top featured a nod to her fall ’19 Jimmy Choo collab sandals with their diamante buckles, emblazoned with the word ‘shoes’ in gothic print.