Rejina Pyo’s fall ‘20 woman has hopped out of bed and is ready to take on the world.
The designer’s signature coats had the look of dressing gowns, roomy pant suits recalled pyjamas and sheeny satin separates were a nod to negligee while necklines featured bustier style silhouettes.
Pyo has always been about dressing for real life and this season real life has come knocking more urgently than ever.
“It’s a reaction to what’s happening now,” she said of the fall ‘20 collection showed yesterday in London. “We’re in a crisis – Donald Trump, Brexit, the climate, Coronavirus — we need to wake up and get out of this dream world. No one’s going to save us so we need to save ourselves.”
Footwear is a growing category for Pyo and her low heels with their subtle details have a loyal cult following. This season’s stand out were the tall wide leather boots like rain boots and pumps resembling slippers — both with ‘of the moment’ square toe silhouettes.
This season the designer also experimented with resilient industrial materials such as rubber coated ankle boots and has developed her first sneaker — with contrast panels and chunky soles. Both these styles were unisex. Little known fact: much of her outerwear is actually unisex too.
Her approach to sustainability is pragmatic.
“If you stop wearing leather you should stop eating meat,” she says simply. “Rather, buy something you’re going to wear forever and not just throw away.”
In similar vein, she showed her collection in an old carpark preferring to work with the character of a building than spending money on expensive sets. And, while it might seem like a no-brainer in the current climate, Pyo is one of the few designers to issue digital only show invitations.
One step at a time.
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