We know that Marc Jacobs likes to put celebrities in his shows, and that he has an affinity for vintage touches. The designer’s fall ’20 collection, which he showed Wednesday night to wrap up New York Fashion Week, was both of those things and more.
With a dance performance that co-mingled with attendees on the floor of the Park Avenue Armory, the show seemed at first baffling but ultimately charming, even freeing from the doldrums of the week.
Let’s get Miley out of the way. Walking alongside another model, the star wore a pair of black tailored trousers, a black bra and black leather gloves that were paired with black patent pointed-toe pumps and a black-and-white animal print coat and leather bag. As striking as she looked, the ensemble was out of place amid such strong vintage motifs as the candy-colored skirt suits with matching tights, worn over pumps with stiletto heels sticking out, or the beehive and beaded cocktail lounge dress worn by Bella Hadid.
The collection felt special, in the way that all of Jacobs’s runway shows have felt special, and heartwarming, too. A bubblegum pink skirt suit, Hadid’s white leather gloves and the pointed-toe pumps and ballet flats worn with socks all read like period pieces, relics from another era — but not in a bad way.
In the age of Instagram, with its flat influencer poses and posts devoid of any real emotion, history and nostalgia are fashion’s lifelines and anchors for the future. Jacobs knows this won’t change anytime soon.
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