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Retail Intel: December 2020

FN rounds up all the store openings, closings and redesigns happening this month, from throughout the footwear industry.

Dec. 2020: Ermenegildo Zegna has opened a new boutique in Houston at The Galleria. The new space blends tradition with modernity through contemporary furniture and interior elements such as woods, metals and stones. In the store, shoppers will find sleek Cassina armchairs by Pierre Jeanneret and a Tato table by Ignazio Gardella. The store features Zegna’s modern wardrobe, which includes a selection of suiting, luxury leisurewear garments, as well as shoe and leather accessories. At the back of the store, customers will be met with a made-to-measure tailoring area where they can personalize their purchased apparel.

Ermenegildo Zegna Store
Inside the new Ermenegildo Zegna store at The Galleria in Houston.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna

Dec. 14, 2020: Carmina Shoemaker has opened its second store in New York. The 1,700-square-foot outpost, located at 509 Madison Avenue, was designed by creative director Marlene Albaladejo, who is also a member of the Spanish luxury brand’s family that spans four generations. Two full walls of windows allow natural sunlight to flood the space, which features custom wooden walls, shelving and furniture produced in Mallorca by expert craftsman Carpintería Campanet. Custom accents were added by Mallorcan stone mason Paviments Llosets and manufacturer Moragues Stones. The boutique also boasts a hydraulic shelving system dubbed the “Carmina Signature Touch.” In a statement, business development head Carmina Albaladejo said, “The store will house our full range of handcrafted styles and will also serve as a beautiful backdrop for our clients who prefer to spend a bit more time with us selecting every detail of their custom shoes.” Carmina Shoemaker already has units in Spain’s Palma de Mallorca, Barcelona and Madrid cities; as well as Paris; Dubai; Singapore; and the store in New York City that opened in 2017.

Dec. 14, 2020: Maison Margiela has introduced a new flagship at 33 Avenue Montaigne in Paris’ Eighth Arrondissement. Developed by Dutch architect Studio Anna Holtrop, the store concept reflects the evolved visual language established at the fashion house by creative director John Galliano. The location spans roughly 2,690 square feet over two levels and displays the full range of the brand’s co-ed collections, plus shoes, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear and fragrances. The surfaces of the outpost’s plaster walls and columns were individually hand-cast in textile molds, while the shelves, tables and seats were carved in stained travertine. The ceilings and walls of the fitting rooms, on the other hand, were painted in a dark green high gloss. It marks Maison Margiela’s fourth store in Paris.

Maison Margiela has opened a new flagship boutique at 33, Avenue Montaigne in Paris’s 8th arrondissement.
Inside the new Maison Margiela store in the Eighth Arrondissement in Paris.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Maison Margiela

Dec. 14, 2020: Melissa has made its West Coast debut. The Brazilian heritage shoemaker has opened its Melissa Clube store in Los Angeles’ Westfield Century City. It marks the second retail outpost for the label in the United States following the unveiling of its location in New York eight years ago. Spanning roughly 1,093 square feet, the architectural undertaking was led by Ourico Arquitetura e Design of Rio de Janeiro. The space fuses modernity and comfort, while committing to the brand’s pillars of sustainability, fashion, art and design. It displays zines, socks and posters as part of visual project #MeetMelissa, which pays homage to the vibrant youth culture of LA.

Melissa makes its West Coast debut.
A general view of the Melissa store in Los Angeles.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Melissa

Dec. 4, 2020: Cole Haan has announced the opening of its GRANDSHØP concept store on Cat Street in Harajuku, Tokyo.  The two-story outpost — which features high-tech flourishes like a second-floor window with a transparent LED screen and QR codes found throughout the interior — serves as the company’s flagship on the pedestrianized fashion thoroughfare and the third GRANDSHØP in the country. “Japan holds a special place for the Cole Haan brand as we’ve been there for more than a quarter century,” brand president David Maddocks said in a statement. “It only made sense to bring our most innovative retail concept to one of the most iconic shopping destinations in the world.” To commemorate the debut, GRANDSHØP will carry the limited-edition Cole Haan x Hasan Minhaj GrandPrø Rally Court sneakers, which was created in collaboration with the award-winning comedian.

Cole Haan GrandShøp Cat Street in Tokyo, Japan - Exterior
Outside Cole Haan’s GrandShøp on Tokyo’s Cat Street.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Cole Haan

Dec. 2, 2020: Renè Caovilla has opened a pop-up store at popular luxury destination Plaza 66 in Shanghai. The launch marks a big step for the brand as it continues its retail expansion in China. Designed by Italian architects m2atelier, the shop blends modernity with a new sophisticated and sleek aesthetic. Interior walls are upholstered with a hand-painted wallpaper with motifs taken from the landscape and the Venetian tradition. The new boutique will also house a collection inspired by the Cleo Sandal, designed for Shanghai and exclusively available at the location.

Renè Caovilla Opens an Exclusive Pop Up at Plaza 66 in Shanghai
Inside Renè Caovilla’s pop-up store at Plaza 66 in Shanghai.
CREDIT: Courtesy of Renè Caovilla

Big Openings Last Month

Nov. 20, 2020: Hermès has doubled the size of its location at The Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey. According to FN’s sister publication WWD, the French luxury house’s more than 8,000-square-foot space at the high-end shopping center is inspired by the state’s forestry, with its exterior featuring tiles in various green tones and the interior carpeted in caramel and green hues. The single-floor store houses the brand’s leather and equestrian goods, as well as its women’s, men’s and accessories collections, plus its beauty line.

Nov. 9, 2020: Alexander McQueen has opened a flagship store in New York’s SoHo neighborhood. The design of the outpost was conceived by creative director Sarah Burton in collaboration with architect Smiljan Radic. Entering the boutique, shoppers are able to find the luxury fashion house’s women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, housed in a space outfitted with oak and walnut floors and walls. A decorative glass cylinder pierces the interior, while a cotton-based papier mâché sculpture was developed specifically for the space. Customers can visit the location at 71 Greene Street.

Nov. 9, 2020: Sneakersnstuff (SNS) continues to develop its hospitality business. The Stockholm-based retailer has opened a new destination in Tokyo called the SNS Cafe that will serve up American, Swedish and European cuisine made with Japanese cooking techniques and ingredients. The space is intended to be a gathering place for locals and visitors alike, and will feature a gift shop stocked with books, music, branded apparel and house goods. This marks the third hospitality launch for SNS, after debuting an event space in Berlin and a bar in New York. The company also has retail stores throughout the world, in Stockholm, London, Berlin, Paris, New York, L.A. and Tokyo.

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