With the climate at the top of everyone’s agenda, Maria Grazia Churi’s move to send out her model cast in Greta Thunberg plaits was a stroke of genius.
From the #MeToo movement to the student protests of ‘60s Paris, the Dior creative director is known for championing a cause, infusing activism into her collections with zeal. But the climate cause in no way detracts from the fact that spring ‘20 was far and away her best collection to date.
First, let’s talk about the shoes. Those combat-cum-walking-boots with their mesh cutouts echoing the bucket-style gardening hats atop the plaits, felt fresh and innovative. She’s used the fishnet motif before to varying degrees of success, but this time she nailed it.
The combat boot, beloved of designers from Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra to Bottega’s Daniel Lee, is an enduring trend after all, and the Chiuri take is set to join them on our wish lists.
But it’s also another important step for the brand in its quest to crack a younger market. Kim Jones made the Dior saddle bag cool again — for both sexes — and now Chiuri is set to do the same for the footwear. Likewise for the slightly more summer-appropriate Dior-logo espadrille slides.
Anyway, both were perfect for trampling the earthy floor of the woodland set designed in collaboration with Coloco, a collective of landscape artists who champion urban horticulture. After the show, the 164 trees on the set are to be planted in and around the French capital.
In a neat twist, Chiuri also tied the environmental theme back to the house. Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine, was a passionate horticulturist, and she inspired Dior’s first perfume, Miss Dior, which was her nickname. The ready-to-wear collection drew inspiration from archival photographs showing her surrounded by flowers in her garden.
Key takeaways include those bucket hats, relaxed canvas interpretations of the Bar Jacket and billowing smocks, botanical prints, raffia embroidery and even the use of tie-dye. Another accessory of note was the rope belt.
Chiuri has previously proclaimed that the future is female. This season, she is also gardener.
See more styles on Dior’s spring 2020 runway at Paris Fashion Week.
Paris Fashion Week Is a ‘Shoe-In’: Here’s Everything You Need to Know About the Footwear
The Top 10 Shoes of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2020
What Bottega Veneta, Sara Battaglia and Rothy’s Did Right at Milan Fashion Week