For his turbo charged collection, Giorgetti turned to the 1992 Fila Silva, reimagined in dramatic black and red, with a merging of the two brand logos.
The shoes appeared on the feet as one might expect but also around the waist, attached to a fanny pack.
So how did it happen? “I just called up the company because I was obsessed with those Silva sneakers,” Giorgetti said. “We designed them together.”
The Fila Disruptor, which won FN’s Shoe of the Year award at the FNAAs last month, also appeared at Pitti Uomo. Astrid Andersen and Elgar Johnson reimagined the shoe with a sandal upper for Fila Fjord, the athletic company’s new premium sub label that launched at the trade show on Thursday night.
Bed J.W. Ford’s Shinpei Yamagishi showed a clothing capsule along with three sneakers in rapid fashion.
The Japanese designer’s aesthetic is based on the concept of dressing up and layering — a colored Adidas trench along with track pant and bomber came semi-obscured beneath languid tailoring.
When it came to the season’s new mood, designers aimed to evolve the sportswear theme. Take, for instance, Giorgetti. In addition to his work with Fila, he showed square-toed boots teamed with go-faster striped gators. “It gives the looks a different attitude,” Giorgetti said. He also introduced sartorial pieces into his signature ’90s sports aesthetic for a “more tailored, made in Italy vibe.”
Santoni and Tod’s were also on board with a formal fusion trend that is gaining ground.
At Santoni, its collection of classics got a contemporary spin with slick hand-colored shoes and ankle boots with bright-orange, non-slip rubber patches on the soles. The label also updated its sneaker collection with retro style runners that featured wooden veneer detailing on the soles. “I definitely see more formal wear coming back but sneakers are still a big part of our group,” said CEO Giuseppe Santoni.
Tod’s updated its classics with sporty fly-knit cuffs that played out on polished derbies and gommino loafers. Creative director Andrea Incontri also conceived a new chunky sneaker/hiker hybrid. In addition, the brand showcased the third iteration of its ‘No_Code Shoeker’ project — think shoe meets sneaker — with the help of Matrix style holograms projected around real life versions of the new shoes.
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