Why Jacquemus Put an End to His Signature Whimsical Heels

Fans of Simon Porte Jacquemus’ whimsical heels are in for a disappointment for the fall ’19 season: There wasn’t a single a quirky art deco silhouette in the house. And for good reason.

“My shoes have been copied so much by high-street chain stores,” the designer told FN of this dramatic departure. “I decided to go a completely different route with leather-covered heels in really minimal conical shapes.”

Model on the catwalkJacquemus show, Runway, Fall Winter 2019, Paris Fashion Week, France - 25 Feb 2019
Jacquemus fall ’19 show at Paris Fashion Week, Feb. 25.
CREDIT: WWD/Shutterstock

Tonight in Paris, the designer’s signature tongue-in-cheek humor took a more conceptual turn. What looked like a pointy white ankle boot worn with a pair of white cropped pants or a a crop jean turned out to be over-the-knee, turn-down versions created using a clever trompe l’oeil effect.

Model on the catwalkJacquemus show, Runway, Fall Winter 2019, Paris Fashion Week, France - 25 Feb 2019
Jacquemus fall ’19 show at Paris Fashion Week, Feb. 25.
CREDIT: WWD/Shutterstock

In fact, this trompe l’oeil idea pervaded the entire show — it was seen in the backdrop on faded pastel houses, shuttered windows and stripy shop awnings, resembling a picturesque French town center. However, just like a movie set, it was created from a series of elaborate plywood hoardings.

Elsewhere, there were Jacquemus’ takes on the androgynous wader boots that dominated the runways of London Fashion Week. Done in super-soft leather you could wear them two ways: straight up or ruched. Luxe utility vibes played out also in the bags: exaggerated four-piece holster belts and minimal pochettes like an artisan’s tool belt.

Model backstage, shoe detailJacquemus show, Backstage, Fall Winter 2019, Paris Fashion Week, France - 25 Feb 2019
Jacquemus fall ’19 show at Paris Fashion Week, Feb. 25.
CREDIT: WWD/Shutterstock
Model on the catwalkJacquemus show, Runway, Fall Winter 2019, Paris Fashion Week, France - 25 Feb 2019
Jacquemus fall ’19 show at Paris Fashion Week, Feb. 25.
CREDIT: WWD/Shutterstock

So what about Jacquemus’ other best-seller — his bijoux mini bags? He turned them into jewels in the form of necklaces, bracelets and key chains. Even the shoes got a bijoux treatment; a pair of blue pumps were seen suspended from a metal hoop, which dangled jauntily from one girl’s wrist.

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