There are certain brands that editors and buyers gravitate toward, and it’s no secret that Marni is one of them. The brand’s fall ’18 collection, which creative director Francesco Risso showed on Sunday at Milan Fashion Week, encapsulated everything that industry insiders love about the brand, including these six things:
Follow the street style of any fashion week around the world, and a slick coat in patent leather, vinyl or PVC is sure to make an appearance. A shiny statement coat is an instant attention-grabber, as are the bright blue and green belted PVC coats that Risso debuted for this collection.
Unexpected shoe hybrids
Shoe afficionados know they can expect an unexpected flatform shoe from Marni, and this season was no different. There were flatforms with sneakerlike rubber soles that had a more ladylike ankle strapped upper, plus lots of buckles and platform layers.
Sculptural hardware and jewelry
Marni often projects the fantasy of a woman who is cultured and creative, and the jewelry, done in unexpected materials, is the decorum one might expect of an art dealer or museum curator. This season, there were textured gold earrings to match the hardware on coats, and lots of signature oversized bangles.
Castiglioni got her start working with furs, but she quickly branched out to mix the luxe material with others to create perfectly layered look after look. This season, Risso matched the aforementioned PVC with exotic skins and a flecked and felted recycled wool with finished wool. There was also room for sequin dresses and pieced leather leggings.
Since the label’s inception, founder Consuelo Castiglioni has included bright, bold colors in just about every collection, and Risso continued that tradition for fall ’18 in just about every way. The designer incorporated solids but also bold stripes, cat prints and a digital print that, from afar, resembled vintage florals — all of which were done in saturated colors.
Good belt options are far and few between, but Marni has always had interesting statement options. This season’s belts were wide and either buckled in silver hardware or tasseled and finished with the same textured gold found in the sculptured jewelry.
See more styles on the runway at Marni’s fall ’18 Milan Fashion Week show.