The designer will stage his next show for Saint Laurent in New York on June 6, according to sources familiar with the label’s plans. Such a move would be a powerful endorsement for the city’s Fashion Week, which has seen a clutch of designers defect to other locations in recent seasons.
Officials at Saint Laurent declined to comment on the house’s plans.
The New York calendar is in flux following Alexander Wang’s decision to move his show to June, from September. In tandem with Wang’s move, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has put into motion plans for official summer and winter fashion seasons taking place as soon as June and December 2018.
The CFDA’s website lists June 2-6 as the dates for the next New York Fashion Week, to be followed by New York Fashion Week: Men’s from July 8 to 10. It is sticking to its main women’s season Sept. 5-11.
To add to the confusion, May and June are also resort season, with Prada, for example, showing its cruise collection in New York on May 4. In addition, the CFDA is staging its annual Fashion Awards on June 4 at the Brooklyn Museum.
While U.S. brands including Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Joseph Altuzarra have opted to show in Paris in recent seasons, French brands have also done the reverse journey. Riccardo Tisci memorably showed his spring 2016 collection for Givenchy against the backdrop of the Manhattan skyline.
Saint Laurent traditionally does not stage cruise shows, and early indications are that Vaccarello’s display will include menswear – though no word yet on whether it will be coed. Since arriving at the label in 2016, the designer has shown women’s and men’s designs together as part of the traditional women’s wear calendar in Paris.
The coed momentum has left the Paris men’s calendar looking a little sparse in terms of major brands, though next June promises to be a blockbuster, with the debuts of Kim Jones at Dior Homme and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, reflecting a powerful push by parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton into the segment.
Saint Laurent belongs to rival conglomerate Kering, which also owns brands such as Gucci, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney.