Nicolas Ghesquière debuted the Archlight for spring 2018, and his aerodynamic take on the chunky sneaker trend won it a legion of fans even before it got its name. Yes, despite the fact that Millie Bobby Brown wore it right off the runway, Louis Vuitton’s new baby remained anonymous for considerably longer than royal baby little Prince Louis of Cambridge.
But here’s the thing. Pleasing as it is as an objet d’art, unless you have the pins of a pre-pubescent 14 year old, it doesn’t do your legs any favors whatsoever. Which is why the new edition that just stomped down Vuitton’s resort 2019 runway is a veritable joy to behold.
This souped up 2.0 version of the Archlight has basically transformed itself into a chunky sneaker / OTK boot hybrid, ticking off the two current biggest footwear trends in one fell swoop. Legs ran the gamut from sleek black leather to white, gold and even painted or patchwork iterations, while those space age soles came in contrast shades. Ankle height versions offered a more wearable take on the theme.
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Part Japanese anime, the futuristic silhouettes also bore more than a passing resemblance to Giacometti’s signature bronze sculptures that dotted the runway. Which was undoubtedly the point. The show took place at private art foundation, Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul de Vence in the South of France.
But while the footwear is destined to be a big hit, the collection’s dance across the decades in terms of ready-to-wear, felt a little disjointed. Seventies peasant blousons, exaggerated shoulders and boxy silhouettes from the Eighties, and Nineties inflected slip dresses lacked cohesion. Which was probably the point as well. But still.
There were also handbags in the shape of cats. And dogs. Created by Grace Coddington, they depicted cartoon versions of her cats, Pumpkin and Blossom, and Ghesquière’s dogs. But unlike the Dior show on Friday, it didn’t rain. Lucky that.