Craig Green showcased two major footwear collaborations in his spring ’19 collection. The British designer collaborated with Nike on five of his shoe looks – flyknit sneakers done in a spliced multicolor collage. Some featured overlays mimicking Green’s signature rope construction riffing off workwear safety harnesses while others featured cutouts – the idea of negative space.
“We were building the shoes yesterday with the Nike team here in Florence, cutting and chopping them up,” he revealed, continuing that Nike also created some full outfits using similar flyknit technology. “They are running outfits,” he said, “ although I don’t think you can really use them to run it as they’re a bit extreme.”
“It’s the first time we’ve put a brand collaborative project into the ready-to-wear and the first time Nike has allowed someone to use their fabric technology to construct garments,” he said. “They gave us free reign and knitted all the panels for us.”
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The rest of the shoes in the collection were a collaboration with British cobbler Grenson. The canvas constructions came in black, white and blue – shot with tape in monochrome or contrast red.
Green and Grenson collaborated for fall ’18 as well, and the shoe in question, a sculptural derby made on an ultra wide last, with a round toe and Vibram rubber sole, launched as of yesterday.
“It was great to work with Craig again for a second season,” said Grenson creative director, Tim Little. “This time he wanted to work with our vulcanized sneaker but use elements from the first season such as the toe fin. He also introduced color to work with his collection.”
The collection as a whole, was based around ideas of reality and perspective, said Green. He likened it to witness statements from a crime scene: “When there are 10 people’s accounts of the day, each of which are completely different. It’s the idea that all reality is alternate depending on who is seeing it or experiencing it.”
The show took place yesterday during Pitti Uomo where Green is the fair’s guest designer. “The reach of the platform is incredible,” he said, “because buyers come here who already buy the collection but have still never seen a show because they don’t come to London.”
The venue, itself, Florence’s enchanting Boboli Gardens, is peopled with stone angels. Green who is known for the wooden frames with which he surrounds models in his productions, this time, fashioned them in a figurative effect. They resembled both a halo and the chalk outlines police draw around dead bodies at a crime scene, he explained. It just depends on how you look at them.