“Everything’s about ‘the make,’” said Jimmy Choo creative director, Sandra Choi of her spring ‘19 men’s collection. “I wanted to show the detail of the craftsmanship but mixing it with the artificial so the two things gel together.”
This notion played out in desert boots — uppers done in graphic surface collages of printed leather with composite soles that are wear-resistant but still ultra-light – while technical knit sock boots came supported by a raw leather cage at the heel and instep.
One highlight was an Oxford lace-up in Vachetta leather, pieced together via a loose whip stitch. “It’s made using a technique borrowed from Japanese garment making,” she explained. “They use it to make the sleeves so there’s not so much tension and the wearer can move freely.” It had the vibe of an articulated sole but translated into an upper.
Watch on FN
Another was a sneaker espadrille fusion. Again, she said, “it was the whole idea of weaving and intertwining something together.” This time, its more literal expression.
Elsewhere, subtle details abounded from collapsible backs and two-way utility sneaker/slides to piping done in trekking lace and embossed leather that gave the impression of being woven. “I wanted to give everything’s a voice,” she said, “everything’s very takeaway.”
In other news, the brand is soon to launch a “spotlight product,” she said cryptically, for both sexes, “it’s quite specific but very exciting.” Last month she opened a store in Vancouver and a Hamptons pop-up and there will follow stores in Aventura Florida in September and then Toronto towards the end of the year. She also made bespoke shoes for the recent nuptials of Bollywood actress Sonam Kapoor, complete with monogrammed soles.
“I’m always trying to sew together the bigger picture,” she said. There’s so much I want to do I just haven’t got round to it yet.”
Click through the gallery to see more styles from the collection.
Street Style at Pitti Immagine
The Top Sneakers From Pitti Immagine
Birkenstock’s Spring 2019 Show Included a Picnic in an Italian Garden