Dutch designer Iris van Herpern is known for her dramatic mise en scenes. For her 10th anniversary, she took it to the next level and staged her fall couture show against a backdrop of underwater musicians. Submerged in tanks, they played instruments and sang – a haunting, otherworldly sound made via bubbles drawn into the throat. As for the shoes, caged heels created from both laser cut and 3D printed metal matched the rippling volumes of the couture.
Elsa Schiaparelli revelled in the unexpected and liked to shock, so that’s just what current creative director Bertrand Guyon did when it came to the footwear this season. He teamed many of his looks with chunky lace-up work boots in glitter or iridescent patent leather with contrast white heels. We can only applaud his irreverent approach to couture. The house founder would have been proud.
Highs and lows
Giambattista Valli doesn’t do in betweens. Case in point being today’s couture show shoes – vertiginous platforms or ballerina flats. No ifs, no buts, no kittens. However, since those Mary Jane pumps had the highest soles we’ve seen since Saint Laurent’s Tribute sandal (the heels were a whopping 18cm), a complete lack thereof for the bus, ahem, stretch limo, home is probably no bad thing. They were enough to strike fear into the heart of seasoned heel wearer, guest of honor Mariah Carey. The lily of the valley crystal embroidery was very pretty though.
Following the couture show earlier today, Christian Dior hosted the mother of all parties to launch its Couturier Du Rêve retrospective at Paris’s Les Arts Décoratifs Museum. The largest fashion exhibition ever hosted at the museum, it marks the house’s 70th anniversary and features more than 300 haute couture gowns – many of which are displayed in a sprawling space that’s a dead ringer for Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors. Outside, a string quintet serenaded guests on the lawns and there were even topiary renderings of those emblematic dresses.
Paying Court to Viti
Across town on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, at Hotel La Paiva, named after the famous Parisian courtesan, Fabrizio Viti hosted a dinner to celebrate the Donna Summer inspired Cruise ’18 collection he showed earlier in the day. And a host of celebrity friends dropped by to pay court. Not least Attico’s Giorgia Tordini, Olivia Palermo and Sofia Coppola. In addition to his own line, debuted last year, Viti is also the shoe designer at Louis Vuitton.