“Blade Runner,” “Labyrinth” and “Slaves of New York.” These three diverse 1980s films inspired three top designers at Paris Fashion Week.
1. Pierre Hardy and “Blade Runner”: For his winter Atelier collection, Pierre Hardy took cues from the 1982 movie “Blade Runner” and specifically its two contrasting characters, Rachel and Pris. The “replicants” — perfect human female robotic androids — come to life through two different collection aesthetics. The “Machina” styles take cues from Pris’ bodysuit.
Pumps, ankle boots, over-the-knee looks and biker styles were crafted like a second skin, according to the designer. Geometric cutouts, varnished leather and suede as well as white, silver or red piping accent the styles.
The “Lunar” part of the collection evokes the spirit of Rachel’s chic character and reference the Japanese commercials aired on buildings during street scenes in the film. Velvet bows make a statement on sandals and boots, while metallic sequins stand out.
2. Nicholas Kirkwood and “Labyrinth”: The designer’s new Labyrinth styles borrow their moniker from the cult 1986 British-American film, a fantasy-adventure film that centers around a 16-year-old girl who is given 13 hours to solve a labyrinth and rescue her baby brother.
A plexi heel in Kirkwood’s collection, for example, is encased in laser-etched gold brass, forming a geometric pattern.
Uppers in the Labyrinth series are either in black suede or come with an eye-catching contrast of white detailing.
3. Robert Clergerie and “Slaves of New York”: The label was all about female empowerment this season, according to CEO Eva Taub and creative director Roland Mouret studied the 1989 “Slaves of New York” and its female characters.
“It’s about burning the candle at both ends,” Taub said of the film, which follows the lives of struggling artists in New York City during the mid-1980s.
With the movie in mind, the brand aimed to make heels with a comfort twist — styles that the Clergerie woman can wear from day to night.