When Paul Andrew travels (which is frequently) so does his eye, searching for a new seasonal starting point.
For fall ’17, a visit to Paris’ Centre Pompidou modern-art museum led him to discover the Atelier Brancusi, which showcases the work of famed sculpture and interior design icon Constantin Brancusi.
From there, Andrew worked (and reworked, quite tirelessly) a collection presented today during New York Fashion Week that centered upon masterful gilded shoe constructions that were both angular and undulating.
“I prototype my styles much more than is commonplace,” said the designer. “It probably takes me four to five times to perfect the heel and another five to six times to get the upper and last just right,” he admitted. “Much to the chagrin of my factories.”
The collection standout was a thick-heeled pump, done in a modernist decor-lover’s marble print and mirror gold. Though they had a luxe heftiness to them, heels were hallowed out and surprisingly light. Andrew has been experimenting with new sturdy heel shapes for a few seasons now and has a real knack for making them every bit as glamorous and seductive as spindly stilettos. In that department, another gold showstopper came with glossy black plumes at the toe and practically begged to be worn to the upcoming Academy Awards. “Those are couture feathers,” Andrew added.
Elsewhere, Andrew nicely developed his core classics — kitten-heel slingbacks, boots and pointed mules — by adding assertive, sexy touches: a slash cutout along the ankle, a splash of red on the insole and back-strap and skintight stretch leather on otherwise demure low boots.