Dare we call a Rick Owens collection understated?
The designer’s spring ’18 men’s collection, shown at Paris Fashion Week today, played up his signature neo-gothic aesthetic — but with a surprisingly refined approach. With pieces like double-breasted suits and sleek slouch boots, Owens took a break from his usual runway theatrics — remember his contortionist models from spring ’16? — and focused in on the fashion this season.

And boy, was the fashion good. Owens focused in on a neutral color palette — all black. white and grey — and toyed with shape. The suits were boxy, the pants super-baggy. As for the shoes, he offered up his interpretations of the trending slouch boot, as well as speed-laced leather boots with chunky rubber soles.
Tight-fitting shoe shapes are proving to be a key trend this season. While Owens did the slouchy boot, others brands — such as GCDS and Marcelo Burlon — showed sock-fit sneakers that hug the ankle.

While the collection proved to be refreshingly reserved, the show’s set was anything but. Owens had models walk an elaborate scaffolding runway that was erected at the Palais de Tokyo.
For more looks from the collection, click through the gallery.
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