The fall ’17 shows during men’s fashion month offered a surprisingly dressy message. Compared to last year’s sneaker boom, designers appear to be once again embracing classic dress silhouettes.
Below, five luxury retailers sound off on the new dress-shoe treatments.
Fashion director, East Dane
“The dress-shoe comeback appears to be motivated by the continuous trend in military-inspired apparel and accessories. We are seeing chunky leather laceups and boots, predominantly in black. The creeper with a chunkier sole has been big. Great pieces from Salvatore Ferragamo, Bally, George Brown Bilt, To Boot, H by Hudson and Wolverine speak to these trends. Another key fashion trend is the return of double-breasted suiting and a 1980s Wall Street look.”
Men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
“One of the biggest messages this season was proportion. The shapes were oversize, with drop shoulders that were reminiscent of the 1990s. That look requires a substantial shoe with a chunkier sole. Dress is always an important category for us, but this season there was more of a trend component. It was everywhere: Church’s, John Lobb, Brunello Cucinelli. Christian Louboutin has a great example of a dress upper with a rubber sole. At Berluti, Haider Ackermann showed combat boots with cap toes, which looked great with cropped trousers.”
Buying manager, Zappos Luxury
“Men are realizing the versatility of a more polished shoe. It is not just for a suit and tie, but it’s an easy way to upgrade a denim look. A lot of our footwear resources are playing with the treatment of leather, color, the toe-box shape and even heel height. Todd Snyder [didn’t have] a sneaker in sight — there was great sportswear paired with more polished, dressy footwear.”
Buying manager, Mr Porter
“The shoes we saw on the fall runways were chunkier, sturdier, more sensible and had an element of practicality to them. It could be that this turn toward dressier shoes is an antidote to what we’ve seen in recent seasons, where sportswear and sneakers have been so prominent. We’re now seeing a bit more of a tailored approach to sportswear, as well as success with separate jackets and separate pants.”
“The sneaker trend will be around for a while, but as with all trends, they peak and fade. The dress-shoe comeback is due to the fact that classic shoes and styles are timeless. No matter how many trends come and go, classic is always a constant. Edward Green is very strong this fall. Their classic English style with new leathers and colors makes wearing traditional dress shoes and boots more interesting.”
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