Who: Anthony Vaccarello, the new designer spearheading Saint Laurent, loves to dress women in all-noir, from head to toe.
What: At Paris Fashion Week, for his debut collection at the storied house, he stayed in his comfort zone, which was a little disappointing since predecessor Hedi Slimane consistently turned out conversation-sparker shoes. (Couture Wellies! Disco platforms! Glitter Mary Janes!)
Shoes: High-shine heels of the highest order. Stilettos were served hot and in three versions: a peep-toe bootie, an ankle-strap sandal and a pointed pump with a little jazzy beading along the side. And the beleaguered YSL logo was back – as a glowing sign upon entry to the show and in the form of graphic metal heels. They worked best when casually paired back to velvet and denim.
Speaking of jazz, spiffy patent dance oxfords were styled with sequin socks, the sole (excuse the pun) moment of gamine charm and welcome irreverence. As such, they were the collection’s clear winner. With such short hemlines and plunging necklines, a flat is much more palatable than ceiling-high heels.