Rupert Sanderson’s spring ’17 collection was an interplay of hard and soft.
The designer unveiled the new line today at Paris Fashion Week, and it features his signature pebble motif, which was reimagined in chiseled wood on his mid-heel styles, popular with Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton. The shoes recalled the Italian martellato (literally meaning “hammered”) technique, while a Brutalist-inflected, brushed metal version was inspired by “Seventies altar pieces,” he said.
Lace-up sandals with marbled heels, done in collaboration with Natalie Trad, riffed off the Dubai-based bag designer’s signature art deco clutches.
Sanderson showed his softer side with platform sandals in washed-out hues of crushed velvet. There were also simple crossover mules and water-cut heels in disco Lurex done in similarly muted shades such as a tawny copper — “very Seventies New York,” he said. Those, along with the 100mm fringed mules with flared vamp and punchy suede color palette, are a surefire hit.
This season’s Sanderson sneaker was a paired-down affair recalling a streamlined bowling shoe.