The Collection: John Galliano debuted a strong collection that riffed on sport motifs for spring ’17 at Paris Fashion Week. But in the Maison Margiela way, of course. It was a surprising look for the quirky French label, which usually reads more art class than gym class. A scuba-style wetsuit top was was worn undone and bunched at the waist.
Techy anouraks were tucked into terry-cloth skirts that mimicked the look of a beach towel. A sheer, ruffled top in aqua blue conveyed the idea of water and movement (as did the sequined bathing cap worn with it). Even a simple yellow rain coat — a camping or hiking essential — was flipped upside down and reworked as a dress. Call it glamping gear.
The Shoes: Athletic footwear shapes added to the vibe this season. Neoprene ankle boots had sport soles and varying upper treatments. Some were printed a striped floral print, others in a baroque-inspired print. They all had the label’s signature split-toe shaft detail.
Meanwhile, sporty flat sandals had Velcro straps, flatform soles and metallic colorways. A few styles felt out of place: the curved heel ankle boots, shown last fall, felt too refined. Clogs with Lucite soles: too bulky.
The Verdict: While Galliano has embraced Margiela’s offbeat aesthetic, he’s had troubles finding a clear thematic vision from season to season. Such was not the case here. He reworked an everlasting trend — athleisure is not going anywhere — and made it feel very fresh. And a little bit weird, too.
For more Maison Margiela looks, click through the gallery.