Donatella Versace blasted off to an interstellar dimension with a collection inspired by outer space and with a softer, more subdued mood than past seasons’ outings.
Her show could not have been more in harmony with the moment: It was the week that NASA sent Brit Tim Peake and an American colleague on a space walk, and just days after the deaths of André Courrèges and David Bowie, two men captivated by the aesthetics of the Space Age.
The collection itself had a fresh, upbeat feel, with models in glowing fiber-optic tracksuits jogging onto a darkened catwalk and blazing with energy.
The shoes fit the futuristic theme. Sneakers had aerodynamic shapes, with flatform soles undoubtedly inspired by moon boots. Even dress shoes, like a lug sole Oxford, were given a space-age feel with techy elastic bands.
Suits were lean, with a — what else? — Sixties feel — one dark one was worn with a silvery shirt and tie, while fuzzy sweaters and coats came in shades of powder blue, lavender, or cream, the latter of which were embellished with white stars or shiny button shapes resembling planets.
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There were snow-white shearlings, and others sheathed in blue or silver foil, while jeans were covered in a network of constellation patterns as were patches on bomber jackets and leather ones, too.
It was, for Donatella, a surprisingly controlled and subdued outing with none of the over-the-top embellishments of the past — apart from a few looks covered in metal buttons. Overall, her newfound optimism and assured hand marked a new phase in her space odyssey.
“The message I want to send is to look at space not as an escape, but as a clean, fresh place, and to make everyone aware of the importance of living well in a clean, eco-friendly world,” she said before the show.
[With contributions from Christian Allaire].