Nothing evokes the ’90s more than a pair of super-tight cycling shorts styled with a nylon bomber or an elongated knitted sweater.
Maison Margiela’s design team trotted out both options for fall. It was familiar territory, upped with the brand’s codes — unfinished hems, clin d’oeil effects and deconstructed silhouettes — and a switch from last season’s clean and chic dressing.
A punky message was transferred onto the shoes. If we’re talking the ’90s, a Dr. Martens-style boot naturally made sense. Leather combat boots had taller silhouettes than average, cutting off at mid-calf. Various chains and silver rings adorned the laces (making for a noisy step, we imagine). Even the classic monk boot was twisted with oversized buckles and thick soles.
A recurring theme was the duffel coat, which at times was rendered in a sleeveless, elongated version, layered over body-hugging Lycra tops or leggings. More appealing were the label’s tailored outerwear options, especially slightly oversized, double-breasted coats with a beautiful soft shoulder.