No inscrutable fashion message to untangle at Dsquared2: Dean and Dan Caten know how to milk an obvious theme and they hit on a good one for fall.
“I’m turning Japanese,” The Vapors wailed on the soundtrack as models emerged from a stand of bamboo and a wall of flashing Tokyo neon.
It was equally plain that this was an exceptional collection from the Canadian twins, who spiked their energetic romp through Shibuya with punk elements, along with fine tailoring.
Fragments of kilts swished over narrow pants, jeans and boxy Bermudas — sometimes attached, sometimes tied around the waist like an apron or a plaid shirt. They looked smart and masculine styled with lean black blazers, satin bombers or jean jackets, the latter made distinctive with raw-edged shirttails, the backs heavily embroidered and patched with script and cherry blossoms. Other punk elements included touches of tartan, multiple zippers and heavy-soled winklepickers and rave boots.
Parkas and duffel coats came in the puffed-up proportions of Power Rangers in their robot guises. They were vaguely Gothic in black wool with silver foil linings and perfect for the windows of Dsquared2’s expanding store network in gleaming brocades decorated with kabuki and manga characters.
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Sleek leather blousons and coats dotted with fluorescent studs resembling gumdrops summed up this collection: molto kawaii.