“The world is under pressure; designers are under pressure due to the unfair competition coming from fast fashion. My response is creativity,” said Ennio Capasa backstage before the show.
Despite his aim, the collection didn’t show a real creative spark. The designer delivered a range of his signature rock ‘n’ roll-inspired silhouettes, sending out shrunken suits in bright tones and geometric patterns, as well as fluid silk shirts, biker jackets and leather pants with lace-up details.
Capasa’s research focused on material treatments, such as flocking and glitter printing on velvet, embellishments and 3D embroideries. But they failed to inject an appealing twist to the collection, which missed the sharpness and strength of his previous efforts.
On the footwear front, Capasa stuck with his rock ‘n’ roll mentality showing a collection of pointed-toe Chelsea-style boots. Other than the occasional female model donning a somewhat slouched knee-high version, the style remained the same throughout.
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Fabrications varied, from patent and matte leather, to a variety of colored suedes. Minimal details offered a slight differing between versions — from an ankle strap to an exposed zip.