As part of Burberry’s streamlining – the label recently combined its three labels under one banner – Christopher Bailey mixed up sporty and elegant, luxe and common, military and civilian – and came up with a powerful cocktail for fall.
The brand’s chief executive and chief creative officer had taken a similar approach for his uneven women’s spring-summer runway show, but found his footing this time with a high-low collection that saluted the season’s top trends, including military, pumped-up volumes, magnified plaids and shearling.
Of course, merging three labels into one comes with its challenges from a footwear perspective. Bailey had to combine Burberry Prorsum’s experimental aesthetic with London and Brit’s more classic aesthetic, and the shoes this season were surely on the safer side. Much of the collection was made up of black high-top sneakers, with suede penny loafers and sportier two-tone runners mixed in.
On the women’s front, Bailey showed below-the-knee suede boots — a silhouette that feels fresh — as well as studded brogues.
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Models strolled around a snaking catwalk in a darkened tent in Kensington Gardens, as the Mercury Prize-winning artist Benjamin Clementine performed live on the piano.
Strolling past a front row that counted guests including the Canadian-Chinese heartthrob Kris Wu, Gabriel Day Lewis, Jourdan Dunn, and musicians Tinie Tempah and David Rhodes, models were dressed for a variety of climates – and times of day.
Highlights included sharp military coats with fat gold buttons and red piping; roomy outerwear – anoraks, duffles, shearling-lined parkas, plaid or herringbone overcoats and one voluminous fox fur coat. Many of them layered over zip-front tracksuit tops or fluid bottoms stripes down the side.
Bailey even added a dash of vintage to the collection: The company has been traveling the world buying up old Burberry pieces and restoring them in its Yorkshire factories.