Day 8 — Kenzo
Kenzo creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim offered up PVC boots done up with intricate, hand painted flowers. Worn with sweet socks underneath the shoes were a playful pop on the runway.
See the whole Kenzo collection here:
Day 7 — Sonia Rykiel
This season, creative director Julie de Libran looked inward, to the house’s Rykiels as muses (the legendary Sonia, her daughter Nathalie and granddaughter Lola) for a collection that celebrated this community of women. The designer enlisted artist Maggie Cardelús to help her create the ‘Le Visages’ collage, featuring the faces of the Rykiels plus de Libran and the artist as well. The resulting print decorated ruffled silk chiffon dresses and platform boots too. The message was a powerful one, and a nice change of pace for Fashion Week.
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See the whole Sonia Rykiel collection here:
Day 6 — Balenciaga
Unusual feminine satin pumps at Balenciaga were even more unexpected than designer Demna Gvasalia’s lighter tube sock shoes at his own brand, Vetements. Where the latter were pointedly très trashy, the former were marked for their full-tilt, satirical glamour. When paired with stirrup pants and an oversized ski jacket, you have to wonder if these are intended as a joke? Luxe jewelry for the feet? Or both?
See the whole Balenciaga collection here:
Day 5 — Acne Studios
Knotted ankle strap heels were Acne’s striking take on the strappy sandal. Done with a tubular treatment, they expressed the collection (and season’s) overarching theme of extreme volume in the most unexpected of places.
See the whole Acne Studios collection here:
Day 4 — Loewe
While the clothing indeed had a nostalgic feel, the shoes were very much in the now: Patent pointy t-strap pumps that had a golden circular detail on the front paired with sheer ankle sockets, sequin mules with a slight kitten heel. Jonathan Anderson has once again shown that a storied fashion house can be both reinvented and respected at the same time.
See the whole Loewe collection here:
Day 3 — Vetements
These tattooed waders aren’t necessarily attractive shoes, but maybe that’s the point. Designer Demna Gvasalia would much rather be interesting, strange and ripped from questionable, disparate subcultures, and that’s what holds our attention and keeps us coming back for more.
See the whole Vetements collection here:
Day 2 — Dries Van Noten
Riffing on strong collegiate codes, bulbous-heel velvet boots were done in scholarly shades of maroon, house purple and old gold. Wrapped around those irregular heels, some wooden, was a strand of grandma’s pearls.
Day 1 — Anthony Vaccarello
The designer’s theme of flash-and-conceal continued via stiletto sandals paired with black socks. White leather sandals had lacing at the ankle but were kept relatively minimal overall — a refreshing show of restraint from his usual va-va-voom collections.
See the whole collection by Anthony Vaccarello: