Every season, Paul Andrew heads to a cultural hotbed for inspiration, and for spring ’17 the designer headed to Copenhagen at his New York presentation Sept. 10. The result? Several shades of neutral brown leathers, heels with wooden finishes and architectural shapes.
While his resort collection had a similar aesthetic with its minimal Scandinavian influences, the designer’s spring collection took more risks. A lace-up sandal in red suede, for instance, had a curved sharp heel at nearly six inches. A tri-buckled stiletto sandal, with silver chain straps, was very Kim Kardashian West — far from Andrew’s more reserved customer.
Other new treatments included a basket weave leather flat with ankle straps. It’s refreshing to see Andrew take on new shapes. Pointy pumps had wooden wedge heels, an influence undoubtedly inspired by the city’s sleek furniture aesthetic. Still, it would have been beneficial to see a few more color pops beside the lone red suedes, though his commercial collection will surely have more.
The designer also showcased his second season of men’s shoes. It included simple scrappy sandals, lug sole loafers and paneled suede high-top sneakers — all pared-back, sure, but finished in unique luxe finishes. Considering the recent news that Andrew has joined Salvatore Ferragamo as the women’s footwear design director, he’s about to be one busy juggling act.