Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez debuted a stellar collection Sept. 12 filled with graphic striping, wrap-tied waists and printed furs. While past seasons have seen the label shy away from color, this season it didn’t hold back with the combinations. There was also an overall emphasis on texture here: sequins and knits paired with high-shine leathers, for example. Meanwhile, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer embraced a grungy-girly look, pairing a mostly black color palette with pops of floral print. Acid wash denims and citrusy yellows lightened the mood.
The Proenza designers are known for being strongly accessory-minded, and the footwear this season didn’t disappoint. Clunky platform sandals — call them a workout for your calves — had striped midsoles that mimicked and evolved with the colors of the ready-to-wear. Others were spotted, including a dalmatian dog, or kept simple in color-blocked solids. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the soles were equally as chunky, but felt overall heavier as the uppers covered more of the foot too. The material finishes included silver studding and snakeskin prints.
Proenza is back being, well, Proenza. After experimenting with a more-refined aesthetic the past few seasons — think elegant bows and lots and lots of beige — it seems to be focusing on its more downtown-rooted customer once again. It’s a direction that feels familiar, yet surprisingly fresh again. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, there was thought put into offering more footwear variety (zip-front ankle boots and pointy pumps were also shown), but overall, it lacked the punch of Proenza’s collection.