The Collection: After a two-year hiatus from the industry, Olivier Theyskens is back. The Belgian designer — who previously held posts at Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory, his last gig — returned with a somewhat safe collection this season, focusing on his signature finishings such as sharp tailoring mixed with flowing ruffles. It was a crowd-pleaser for sure, though there were new flourishes, too — a punchy red silk gown, for instance, featured an asymmetrical knotted shoulder tie and opened sleeve.
The Shoes: Much like the ready-to-wear, the footwear collection screamed Theyskens. White patent boots had his go-to hook-and-eye fastenings, a design detail he often favors on his clothes. High-shine embossed boots, cut mid-calf or at the ankle, offered severe accents to the more feminine pieces, like a sheer polka-dot dress. Meanwhile, T-strap stiletto sandals offered nothing new.
The Verdict: No doubt the industry is happy to see Theyskens back in the game. It will take a few seasons for him to find his footing again, but the comeback collection promises big potential. His point of view hasn’t faded, but the question will be how it evolves. After all, fashion only moves forward.
For more looks from the show, click through the gallery.