The Mood: Military influences get a dash of fauvism. Cargo jackets and aviator coats were paired with offbeat flourishes — a Margiela signature — like oversized belt buckles, dyed netted hair pieces, and pins reminiscent of Henri Matisse’s cutouts. A real emphasis on color pops here but grounded in its overall pragmatic influence. Vests were paired with metallic ruffled off-the-shoulder tops, for instance. Sturdy hikers had mismatched ribbon laces and cozy shearling lining.
The Shoes: Platform soles and curved heels offered a theatrical element. The clunky silhouette was added onto white mod booties with ankle straps, or penny loafer heels. Slouchy below-the-knee boots in patent had a wedge sole. Ankle boots were finished in a variety of ways: tiger prints, western-style stitching, panelled with a contrasting heel in embossed croc. On the flats front, pointy oxfords had an oversized buckle embellished with crystals. Hikers made many appearances with ribbon laces and a striped midsole. It was lined with shearling or done in a graphic mixed-media style.
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The Review: After a few unsteady seasons, John Galliano finally seems surefooted in his direction. The tiniest of details and intricate layering made this collection surprising to the eye over and over and over again. Will the wacky shoes be a commercial success? Unlikely. The brand has still yet to find the next big hit to its sneaker hits. But we could see other accessories, like a patchwork mini bag, taking flight.
For more Maison Margiela looks, click through the gallery.