The mood: A modern Marlene Dietrich. The collection took cues from 1940s tailoring: sharp suits with lace camis, organza blouses with mensy trousers, sheer tuxedo shirts with off-the-shoulder wool sweaters. Its signature knits were reimagined for evening by styling a chunky turtleneck with layered tulle skirt.
The shoes: Sleek pointed pumps were given a modern spin with cylindrical Plexiglas heels. The style was done in black or nude satin, or a plaid wool — a nice tie-in to the brand’s knitwear roots. Subtle flourishes, like a leather fringe kiltie detail, elevated the product. The clear heel trend had more momentum last season but added some nowness to the collection’s retro-leaning aesthetic.
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The review: Given fashion’s tendency to look to the past, the brand at least attempted to reinvent itself in the now. The glitzy-fied sweaters, wether with paillettes or lace appliqués, showed some new direction and excitement. The wool jumpsuits or cableknit dresses fell flat. And the shoes could have been taken a tad further — why not create a cashmere heel with the same embellishment as the clothes? As an authority in all things knits, the opportunity was missed.