During his four-year tenure as designer and strict image-maker at Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane used shoes to set the tone and shift fashion each season. That heavy duty now falls on the shoulders of the newly appointed man of the house, Anthony Vaccarello.
Slimane’s final collection revisits many of the brand’s greatest hits, including Candy bow platform sandals and signature Blake Jodhpur boots in new fabrications such as animal or twinkling star prints and glitter finishes.
This continuation of the new classics is a key reason why the brand has been so commercially successful. This through-line extended to fall ’16’s updated styles as well. The Babies grouping of low block heels was extended to include an over-the-knee version, done in suede and with three heel heights.
The Classic Jane sandal got a slightly thicker strap and heel or an ’80s spin with pert ribbon bows at the toes.
For his final runway show, Slimane styled the models exclusively in v-vamp pumps with glittering bows decorating the backs of the stiletto heel for an era-of-excess statement.
Tall, fitted boots, the kind Stevie Nicks and Joni Mitchell wore onstage in the ’70s, were carried over from the Palladium collection, which was shown in Los Angeles prior to Paris Fashion Week. They were done in velvet, metallic python or a beautiful beaded rose option.
Many of the shoes were so archetypal they didn’t appear to be new additions, yet they were. Again, Slimane stuck to his own hyper-specific instincts and set of codes during his disciplined and undeniably riveting reign.
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