From discord, great new ideas can emerge. Hopes are that this will be the case after an unusually disjointed season for trends in Milan. Sure, an argument could be made for variety and originality prevailing, but from a footwear perspective, Milan Fashion Week often felt as though designers had quite simply run out of ideas.
How else to explain the frequent recycling of familiar trends and trickery? Yes, the notion of “no idea is new idea” applies here, but from feathery fluffs to extreme sneakers and binding strapping, it was a bit of been there, done that — and all-too-recently.
Recurring shapes included the mule and D’orsay, while pointed and squared were the preferred toe shapes. Extreme platforms appeared here and there, most memorably at Versace, but many of the most fetching styles were on the daintier side, be they backless or slingbacks. Indeed, this kind of heel exposure was a focal point of Marni’s cutout bootie sandals.
Surprisingly, the most creative footwear designs appeared on the very first day, at Gucci and No. 21. What was so very enticing about these two very different collections was the reworking and distorting of classic shapes through wildly adventurous gestures.
At Gucci, it was the swooping heel shapes, filtered metallics, collapsed loafers and brass spikes that delighted the most. They solidified Creative Director Alessandro Michele as Milan’s (and fashion’s) current darling. At No. 21, signature stiletto mules (sweetly worn with socks) almost resembled ceremonial masks, so covered were they in tassels and pompoms. They looked like nothing else — a welcome change.
The Top 20 List
- No. 21
- Marco de Vincenzo
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Salvatore Ferragamo
- Bottega Veneta
- Emilio Pucci
- Jil Sander
- Max Mara
Click through to see the top 20 shoes on the runway.