New creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne — the talents behind New York-based label Public School — debuted their first collection for DKNY this week.
The spring ’16 show featured the designers’ signature borrowed-from-the-boys aesthetic. Boxy, pinstriped read-to-wear was paired with sharp mensy flats.
Overall, the footwear was decidedly less sporty than DKNY’s previous collections. Here, laceup oxfords were given creeper-style soles and finished in an all-over white or black leather treatment. The same went for the Chelsea boots too, with certain styles featuring buckled straps overtop the vamp.
The collection was also more feminine than one is used to from Chow and Osborne, although this was done in a slightly off-kilter way. Sheer, polka-dotted dresses featured peacoat-style buttoning—a nice mixture of men’s and women’s detailing—and matched the thin, opaque black socks styled with the shoes.
As their collections for DKNY evolve, it will be interesting to see if the duo can maintain two separate lines with two distinct looks—right now, the lines are tad blurred.
“We both grew up in New York, and DKNY has always been part of the landscape of this city,” Chow and Osborne had said in Late April, when they joined the brand. “[The brand] evokes everything our city was always about — energy, disruption, new thinking and transcending all boundaries.”
For a closer look at DKNY’s spring ’16 shoes, click through the gallery.
To read more of FN’s New York Fashion Week coverage, see below: