British brand Dr. Martens is taking a step back in time for its fall ’15 collection, inspired by the Buffalo movement — a style movement that emerged from London in the ’80s as a rejection of the conformity of the mainstream fashion of the era.
Buffalo was founded by Ray Petri, a prominent stylist of the decade who was known for breaking rules and pushing boundaries — dressing men in skirts and mixing elements of sports and cultural dressing into his styling, often footnoted with Dr. Martens boots and shoes. Along with other high-profile style icons of the day, including model Naomi Campbell, stylist Mitzi Lorenz and Buffalo photographer Jamie Morgan, they influenced a generation of photographers, stylists and art directors.
It was kicked off by the radical editorial of street-culture magazine The Face, which was created by Morgan and Petri and featured a black-and-white photo of a gangster-eyed 13-year-old boy named Felix with the word “Killer” pinned to his hat.
This fall, Dr. Martens celebrates the 30th anniversary of the launch of the Buffalo movement. After three decades, Morgan and stylist Barry Kamen, also an integral member of the original movement, have collaborated for a series of striking images and a short film documenting the movement’s influence.
Dr. Martens is also acquainting consumers with its history through the recently released book, Dr. Martens: A History of Rebellious Self-Expression, retailing for $15. Written by British author Martin Roach, its narrative is told in part through dozens of interviews with musicians, subcultural individuals and creative personalities and features more than 220 photographs.