Milan Fashion Week: Spring 2016 Shoe Collections

O’Jour by Giorgia Caovilla

Giorgia Caovilla’s latest collection for O’Jour featured the brand’s signature ladylike footwear. Patent leather loafer pumps were done in vibrant hues, a carry-over style from her resort collection. Kitten heels had a curved heel, while slingback sandals had oversized bows on the front. Silk brocades were done on ankle booties and pumps. — C.A

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Rene Caovilla

At Rene Caovilla, creative director Edoardo Caovilla had two special guests this season: his father Rene and mother Paula. The collection certainly paid homage to many of Caovilla the Senior’s signatures, from snake wrap sandals to gladiator heels. To say they were covered in crystals is akin to describing a Chanel bag as quilted in terms of obviousness.

“Sparkle is our DNA,” the younger Coavilla declared. These days, it’s a strategy that’s working just fine for the brand, with sales nearly doubling for the spring season. “I’m a numbers man first and foremost,” Edoardo said. He shares his father’s eye for what many women want when it comes to shoes: something dazzling.  — M.L.H

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Rene Caovilla Spring 2016 Milan Fashion Week Rene Caovilla spring ’16 runway collection. Davide Maestri.

Charline de Luca

Charline de Luca was back on the presentation bandwagon after sitting one season out during the birth of her first child. Motherhood clearly gave her a new love of flats – the collection had some terrific sling backs and sandals that still carried her signature sharp lines.

She also brought back her earlier platforms now that fashion desires styles beyond just single soles again. Done in satin or leather, hers had architectural uppers and sculpted island soles. “I was ready for this style again and it’s really the kind of shoes I do best,” she said. But more dainty gingham lace up stilettos showed she also has a knack for sweeter styles too. — M.L.H

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Charline de Luca Spring 2016 Milan Fashion Week Charline de Luca spring ’16 collection. Courtesy of brand.

Etro

At Etro, frilly and floral dresses, skirts and tops had a Native-American-meets-“Little House on the Prairie” feel. The footwear was a total departure from that—dainty silk lace-up flats with embroidery detail gave way to tough lace-up flat boots. — R.A.

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Etro Spring 2016 Milan Fashion Week Etro spring ’16 runway collection. REX Shutterstock.

Giannico

For spring ’16, it was all about bold prints at Giannico. There were leaf-printed booties and flats, classic cheetah print and one in pink and black and mules with large flower embellishments. The collection was a fun exaggeration of spring’s light and bright spirit. — R.A.

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Giannico Spring 2016 Shoe Collection Giannico spring ’16 collection. Courtesy of brand.

Casadei

While Casadei may have titled spring ’16  “A New Odyssey,” the collection solidified what the brand has long held as strengths. Strong shapes, forward-looking technique and that certain Italian sizzle.

Motif and bijoux embellishment gave cutouts sandals and flats textual interest. A cagey stiletto and python criss-cross style with tasseled ankle straps managed to be both spindly and strong, like Casadei’s most enduringly popular style, the Blade heel. — M.L.H

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Casadei Spring 2016 Shoe Collection A Casadei spring ’16 style. Courtesy of brand.

Brian Atwood

Brian Atwood knows how to vacation famously well. Just take a gander at his enviable Instagram for proof. But often, as was the case for spring, a little R&R leads to working inspiration.

For spring 16, the designer referenced his half Mexican lineage in a collection that was first dreamt up while holidaying in Tulum and later Acapulco. — M.L.H

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Brian Atwood Spring 2016 Shoe Collection Brian Atwood spring ’16 collection. Davide Maestri.