FN Spy: The NY Fashion Week Rewind

Concrete Jungle
New York Fashion Week easily gets everyone in an Empire state of mind. Here, FN’s fashion team ranks the top moments.

Best soundtracks:
• Rebecca Minkoff’s show featured a live performance by Brooklyn rock band Little Daylight.

• An original soundtrack at Rag & Bone was produced by Radiohead’s Thom Yorke and Nigel Godrich.

• The haunting theme from “Rosemary’s Baby” accompanied the anything-but-creepy Altuzarra show.

Best star-studded front row:

The Versus Versace show. Celeb attendees included Jennifer Hudson, Nicki Minaj, Naomi Campbell, Rihanna and Nina Dobrev.

Top collaboration shoes:
1. Misha Nonoo x Aldo Rise’s ultrastrappy sandals and pointed flats with removable ankle ties.

2. Tanya Taylor x Paul Andrew’s graphic block-heel sandals in variations of python and patent (done in orange, black and white).

3. Suno x Nicholas Kirkwood’s clunky, tri-buckle patent leather sandal styles with cork sole.

4. Bionda Castana x Honor’s pointed flat with front mesh and bow detail (in pastel blue and white).

5. Chelsea Paris x Cynthia Rowley’s mule-heel styles with wrap ties.

6. Jean-Michel Cazabat x Sophie Theallet’s multicolored strappy stilettos and patterned cutout looks.

Most unique presentation:
Polo Ralph Lauren chose Central Park as the venue for its show. The collection was shown against a 4-D water-screen backdrop, and guests were transported to and from via golf carts (likely to avoid heels sinking in the grass).

Most dangerous heel environment:

Badgley Mischka had supermodel Naomi Campbell close the show while silver balloons fell from the ceiling — a beautiful sight, until guests began tripping over and popping them with their stilettos.

Most unlikely footwear cameo:

Alexander Wang designed an entire sneaker-inspired collection for spring. While his heeled sandals were kept minimal, tennis dresses were done in green and white as an ode to Adidas Stan Smiths.

Most unlikely street style trend:

While skyscraper heels were out in full force, Teva sandals dominated the feet of the fashion crowd, whether paired with socks and shorts for full-on normcore or even formal dresses.

Most made-you-look piece:

Known for his experimental silhouettes, Christian Siriano channeled his daring side for spring footwear, presenting a sandal with an exaggerated fold-over flap detail.

Backstage: Seen & Heard
“[Designing footwear] changes the whole collection. You think about it head to toe,” said designer Misha Nonoo, who collaborated with Aldo Rise on footwear. “This is the first time Aldo Rise has done a flat. The nice thing is the versatility — you can take the ankle strap out and it can just be a slingback.”

“This is my very first designer collaboration and also my first New York Fashion Week. It’s exciting to see it all come together, and a big step for me,” said Chelsea Paris designer Theresa Ebagua on her Yuwa mules for Cynthia Rowley.

“I’ve known Jean-Michel Cazabat since way back when I was at Jean Paul Gualtier,” said Sophie Theallet on her new colorful collaboration heels, inspired by reggae and dancehall after a springtime trip to Jamaica. “We always said that one day we would work together.”

Launch Pad
New York Fashion Week welcomed some new footwear faces, including Prabal Gurung and Creatures of the Wind. Here’s the scoop on their debuts.

Creatures of the Wind:

“Until this season, we had a great collaboration with Tabitha Simmons, so we’ve been showing runway shoes for a few years now,” said co-designer Chris Peters. “But to see our own fully developed capsule of shoes go from initial sketch to finished product, with the clothes on the runway, was exciting. We used some of the ready-to-wear fabrics in the shoes, too, so it was great to have this direct connection to the clothes.” As for the duo’s favorite styles: “I love the sandal in blue and yellow, with the whitewashed wooden platform. The bright colors are satisfying,” said co-designer Shane Gabier. Added Peters, “The black-and-white slide, also with the whitewashed platform.”

Prabal Gurung:

“There is definitely a lot of pressure to develop your signature and create a strong foundation for seasons to come, so a lot went into this. I’m eager to see what the response will be and to grow this side of the business,” said Gurung, who added that his favorite style was the pink, white and black Zaha. “There is a definite femininity to the shoe but with graphic, modern appeal. I also love what we’ve done with the hardware throughout — it’s strong.”

Pierre’s Party

Welcome to Bergdorf Goodman, Pierre Hardy. The designer launched at the store last week, a move he said was no small feat. “The shoe floor is a legend,” he said. “It’s kind of like a pilgrimage for chic women.” To celebrate, Hardy hosted a personal appearance party, with sketches and all. “In New York, the women are into participating and communicating about fashion,” he said. “New York women are very alive. Meeting them is very interesting, to see how they wear particular styles.” And even though Hardy was only in town for 48 hours, he was hoping to make a stop at the Whitney Museum to check out the Jeff Koons exhibit. “I love him as an artist,” he said. From New York, Hardy jetted to Paris to celebrate his brand anniversary — with a dance party, of course. “The last days of disco [theme] and the disco ballroom [setting] will be wonderful,” he said.

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