MFW Spring ’15: Weekend Report

FN’s fashion editor reports from the footwear front lines in London, Milan and Paris.

Saturday

10:24 a.m.
Armani show. As always, a time warp.   He is on the money with the sneakers though.

11:32 a.m.
Alberto Moretti shares that Las Vegas and American-style pizzazz inspired him this season. Blackjack heels for those feeling lucky. Wonder if these would be verboten at the Wynn?

12:14 p.m.
At Jimmy Choo, why have one buckle closure when you can have three? Creative director Sandra Choi is all about experimentation this season. At times it reads heavy-handed– or footed.

12:45 p.m.
A visit to Giuseppe Zanotti, where as always, OTT embellishment and rocker references reign on and on and on. A crocodile spine embellishment is my favorite of all the full-gilt regalia.

2:00 p.m.
Espresso at Cova Caffè – a Milanese treasure – with Giuseppe Santoni, CEO of Santoni. We head to the Hotel Bulgari for a lunchtime interview. Soon Pharrell Williams arrives and it becomes selfie central. Time to depart.

4:30 p.m.
Swing by Gianvito Rossi’s showroom for a proper sit down with the designer. Rossi’s incredibly high standards for himself and appreciation for his father Sergio’s legacy is part of his unique charm. Our chat is coming up in Footwear News soon. 



6:32 p.m.
Aquilano.Rimondi made liberal use of carved wood this season. Did a carpenter craft these shoes or a cobbler?




7:28 p.m.
Head to toe Florentine glamour with a American Southwest bent (right down to the boots) at Pucci.

Sunday

9:29 a.m.
Marni’s flatform foam sole from last season must have been a success because here it is again. Street style bait. 



These will be polarizing, but the amped-up ankle strap trainer was my top pick. Earmarking for Shoe of the Day.

10:00 a.m.
Breakfast with my former Footwear News intern, Marc Antoine. He’s currently studying fashion in Florence and I arranged a work placement for him at Aquazzura. He’s off to a great start and I’m happy he’s still in the shoe scene.

11:32 a.m.
Ferragamo introduces a new take on its heritage platform. Rainbow hues replaced with steady beige. Doesn’t approach the original’s spirit nor audacity, but an important brand code to keep reworking. Another Shoe of the Day contender.

12:30 p.m.
Brian Atwood’s razzle dazzle is slightly toned down this season, by his standards at least. Cage booties with baroque trimming are standout. I’m even starting to come back around to the bigger-is-better platform once more. It can work on the right woman.

Also noteworthy is his collaboration with Donald Drawbertson on five styles covered in the artist’s kiss print.

1:38 p.m.
The Massimo Bonini showroom is a shoe Mecca. The showrom works with hundreds of designers and are very supportive of new talent, which is not always the case in Italy. Check out the entire offering of No. 21. The brand’s mules are still the best heel I saw this entire week bar none.

Horsebit sneakers from Henderson. This color roll captures most of the season’s key shades.

Pill popper pumps from cheeky new designer Giannico. A mere 18 years old. Will definitely keep my eyes on him. He clearly has a sense of humor.

7:30 p.m.

Off to my last show of Milan – MSGM. In terms of sales, retailers have said the line is on fire right now. Had a sneak peek of the footwear at Massimo Bonini. After a week in heels, these runners are quite appealing.

 

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