FN’s fashion editor reports from the footwear front lines in London, Milan and Paris.
Skipping shows today — there are too many footwear presentations to do both. Busiest day of Milan, and of course it’s raining. These Roger Vivier calf-hair boots are hardly wellies.
Really impressed by new Bally designer Pablo Coppola’s refined direction for the brand. The pink, engine green, oxblood and spearmint palette is spot-on. It’s still early, but his loafers have Shoe of the Day potential.
Fratelli Rossetti’s presentation is held at Palazzo Visconti, the former residence of the filmmaker himself. It’s grandeur juxtaposes nicely with spring’s hand-dyed and stencilled oxfords. Chat with the three Rossetti brothers — Dario, Diego and Luca. Snap a family portrait.
Accessory design veteran Álvaro González is holding his first presentation for his budding line of sandals. Just as I’m leaving, the Barney’s team arrives. One to watch.
Giorgia Caovilla’s O Jour is up next. Her designs are hyper-feminine, and this season she’s experimenting with art nouveau heels in marble finishes.
At Casadei, designer Cesare says it took 250 hours to finish his floral patchwork boots. It’s a good reminder of the dedicated cobblers behind the scenes. Louis Leeman’s Erica Pelosini bounces in to greet Cesare. He’s wearing smoking slippers from their collaboration together.
A favorite at Santoni — the snakeskin Morrocan loafer. Speak with Giuseppe Santoni, and he shares news of a store opening on Madison Avenue in New York this month. We make plans to discuss more over lunch tomorrow.
Marni flower truck spotted on the way to Gianvito Rossi. Only in Milan.
Gianvito’s collection is very, well, him. Precise silhouettes, light embellishment, subtle tones. It’s all about the purity of lines here.
Sergio Rossi presentation locations change seasonally and always reveal a hidden corner of Milan, such as the Dimore Gallery, a former residence. Designer Angelo Ruggieri tells us how he chose all the furniture himself to flatter his collection’s Matisse-inspired faded brights and cut arts. If he ever tires of shoes, he could be an interior decorator. I’d hire him.
Raffia gets the René Caovilla treatment. Tour the sparkling new showroom and catch up with creative director Edoardo Caovilla. Hearing his travel schedule snaps me out of any exhaustion.
See Max Kibardin’s new eponymous collection. He has an eye for interesting proportion, from petite handbags to heels with voluminous Guy Bourdin-inspired bows.
Back to the bureau and the real work begins. Until next time.