MFW Spring ’15: Day 3

FN’s fashion editor reports from the footwear front lines in London, Milan and Paris.

10:30 a.m.
Skipping shows today — there are too many footwear presentations to do both. Busiest day of Milan, and of course it’s raining. These Roger Vivier calf-hair boots are hardly wellies.

11:30 a.m.

Really impressed by new Bally designer Pablo Coppola’s refined direction for the brand. The pink, engine green, oxblood and spearmint palette is spot-on. It’s still early, but his loafers have Shoe of the Day potential.

12:20 p.m.

Fratelli Rossetti’s presentation is held at Palazzo Visconti, the former residence of the filmmaker himself. It’s grandeur juxtaposes nicely with spring’s hand-dyed and stencilled oxfords. Chat with the three Rossetti brothers — Dario, Diego and Luca. Snap a family portrait.

1:00 p.m.

Accessory design veteran Álvaro González is holding his first presentation for his budding line of sandals. Just as I’m leaving, the Barney’s team arrives. One to watch.

2:15 p.m.
Giorgia Caovilla’s O Jour is up next. Her designs are hyper-feminine, and this season she’s experimenting with art nouveau heels in marble finishes.

3:00 p.m.

At Casadei, designer Cesare says it took 250 hours to finish his floral patchwork boots. It’s a good reminder of the dedicated cobblers behind the scenes. Louis Leeman’s Erica Pelosini bounces in to greet Cesare. He’s wearing smoking slippers from their collaboration together.

3:40 p.m.

A favorite at Santoni — the snakeskin Morrocan loafer. Speak with Giuseppe Santoni, and he shares news of a store opening on Madison Avenue in New York this month. We make plans to discuss more over lunch tomorrow.

4:30 p.m.

Marni flower truck spotted on the way to Gianvito Rossi. Only in Milan.

4:44 p.m.

Gianvito’s collection is very, well, him. Precise silhouettes, light embellishment, subtle tones. It’s all about the purity of lines here.

5:28 p.m.

Sergio Rossi presentation locations change seasonally and always reveal a hidden corner of Milan, such as the Dimore Gallery, a former residence. Designer Angelo Ruggieri tells us how he chose all the furniture himself to flatter his collection’s Matisse-inspired faded brights and cut arts. If he ever tires of shoes, he could be an interior decorator. I’d hire him.

6:12 p.m.
Raffia gets the René Caovilla treatment. Tour the sparkling new showroom and catch up with creative director Edoardo Caovilla. Hearing his travel schedule snaps me out of any exhaustion.

6:49 p.m.

See Max Kibardin’s new eponymous collection. He has an eye for interesting proportion, from petite handbags to heels with voluminous Guy Bourdin-inspired bows.

7:40 p.m.
Back to the bureau and the real work begins. Until next time.

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