Pitti Uomo: Brand Report

FN goes behind the scenes with men’s labels at Pitti Uomo to find out what’s in store for spring ’15.

Cesare Paciotti is pushing the fashion casual category next season, introducing lace-up sneakers in orange suede, white leather — either plain or studded in Swarovski crystal — with a white zip trim around the sole’s seam. The zip-trimmed sneaker also comes in blue, glossy crocodile leather with Velcro straps. Slipping comfortably into the segment, Cesare Paciotti’s 2015 season also will have a line of chamois suede, soft “slippers,” available in moss green and other colors, with a bi-color rubber sole and jagged white trim on the cuff and vamp.

Oliver Sweeney said colors are picking up and reported particular success for its navy double-monk strap Brantham. That style has a contrasting leather-and-suede upper, wingtip-like brogueing and a white gimped split welt. The canvas patterns and heavy stitching of deck chairs inspired the British label’s Adriano slip-ons, available in red, white and blue canvas. The Clopton style is a sporty leather wingtip with denim or map-print canvas panels, simplified brogueing and a durable Fin Project XL sole.

Brunello Cucinelli
is introducing sneakers in kudu suede and a “drawer”-like single-mold, single-seam base with cotton-cashmere laces. The shoes are available in navy and brown. The navy version has laces in contrasting gray. Brown suede slip-ons feature rope trim. Classic suede spectators got a sporting twist with wool canvas or denim panels.

Italian label Holder’s has abandoned the vintage distressed look that has dominated its footwear collections since 2010. Next season will see the reintroduction of sport-casual hybrids with an accentuated use of color and muted tones. The shoemaker is putting out a rainbow of vividly colored suede moccasins with cleat-like rubber soles.

Barker is debuting a new color combination for its Cambridge spectator brogue, which now comes in navy suede with contrasting polished walnut calf. The five-eyelet oxford has single-punch detailing and a hand-burnished, chiseled toe. It is designed to work with both suits and jeans.

This fall, Loake is offering its Hyde cap-toe ankle boot in brown grain calf and plain calf with a dainty studded sole. The label said its top-selling style in Europe and the U.S. for the last four years is its Aldwych full-grain, cap-toe oxford, which is coming out in a new color next season: mahogany.

English handmade shoe specialist Crockett & Jones reported that the fashion-forward Tokyo and Paris markets are gravitating back to rounder, wider toes. The label’s dark-brown water-resistant suede penny loafer, Teign, which features an elongated toe, has done so well as a bespoke offering that the label is making it available in standard sizes. Crockett & Jones noted that demand for the color navy is on the rise worldwide.

Max Verre has created a collection of polished leather styles that plays with color shading. Its high-gloss MV951 ankle boot has a graduated hue that moves from deep burgundy to brown, thanks to a proprietary coloring method.

Giuseppe Zanotti is substantially expanding his offerings next season. The designer will flesh out his sandal collection to offer styles in each category, from evening shoes to sneakers.  Natural-toned sandals take inspiration from St. Tropez and feature contrasting details such as a metal chain or zipper spanning the arch. Crystals make cartoon-inspired patterns or are embroidered into vivid, multicolored skulls on denim, royal-blue suede or black velvet. Beige calf-leather high-tops have thick, padded Velcro straps for an oversized look. New next season is a streetwear collection designed to match the shoes for a total look.

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