When Sportmax is at its best, it is the sportif, less serious little sister to the more sedate Maxmara. Today, that was signaled by the delightful mules that clip-clopped (as they do) down the runway. Their fur pom-poms and sugary pink or licorice satin easily charmed. The real news, however, was the backstory: a tapered heel jutting with an architectural Rem Koolhaas-style Lucite piece at its base. Like this forward-thinking footwear, swishy hemlines, over-scaled polka dots and slouchy tailoring nodded to the ’90s trend while avoiding literal nostalgia.