Fall Flash: NYC Hits

Top U.S. retailers sound off on fall’s most directional footwear and their must-have items from the New York collections.

Linda Fargo
SVP of fashion office & store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Strongest trends:
“The ‘tough chic’ biker trend continues to be strong with accents such as buckles, studs, nail-heads, zippers or quilting. Tall, flat equestrian-style boots are also very strong. Liquid metals in deep gold, bronze and anthracite are popping up in pumps, ankle boots and laceups. Speaking of shine, patent leather has made a strong showing. The colors of the season, especially the evergreens and crimsons, are the ones to pick up.”
Must-carry styles:
• “The ‘pant boot’ looks amazing. Everyone will want a pair.”
• “Ankle boots are a must.”
• “The single-sole, pointy-toe pump continues. We love them in jewel tones with cap toes. It’s noteworthy that styles have gravitated closer to the ground.”
Ones to watch: “Charlotte Olympia continues to amaze us with her whimsical designs. Laurence Dacade’s motorcycle boots and ankle boots are highly sought-after as well.”

Amanda Brooks
Fashion director, Barneys New York

Strongest trends: “We continue to see a refined shoe on the runway — still classic shapes, but this time in unusual colors and mixed materials. Phillip Lim, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang and Narciso Rodriguez all showed a pointy toe in both boots and heels. We saw the continuation of cap toes from resort at Phillip Lim and Derek Lam (in metallics and patent leather). Printed shoes are another trend emerging on the runways. Derek Lam showed floral-print heels with a pointy patent leather cap toe, while Rag & Bone showed floral-print booties that matched the fabrics of the pants and tops.”
Must-carry styles:
• Single-sole shoes
• Pointy cap-toes
• Mixed exotic skins
Ones to watch: “Narciso Rodriguez will relaunch his accessories collection for fall ’12. We found his shoes both elegant and directional. He focused on mid-calf pointy-toe boots and classic d’Orsay pumps in mixed materials of ostrich, suede and leather. The colors included shades of rust and green, mixed with neutrals such as black, white and gray. We also are excited to carry Ancient Greek Sandals this spring in Co-op. Christina Martini, who previously designed shoes at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, creates handmade leather sandals that will become a wardrobe staple during the warmer months.”

Brooke Jaffe
Fashion accessories director, Bloomingdale’s
Strongest trends:
“One trend that stood out was motorcycle boots. It’s nice to see a little edge return since we have been in an ultra-dressy cycle in footwear. With that said, we also love pointy-toe pumps for fall, as they change the whole look of a pair of leather leggings or pants. Fashion booties as a category are this season’s must, whether it’s a little bootie on a heel in oxblood leather (the season’s must-have color), a little flat Chelsea boot or motorcycle boot, or even little pointy-toe booties. It’s all about that bootie. Another new must have this season is the high-top fashion sneaker, no matter if they are a flat silhouette or on a wedge.”
Must-carry styles:
• Marc by Marc Jacobs’ runway motorcycle boot
• Alejandro Ingelmo’s liquid silver pointy-toe pump
• Stuart Weitzman’s high-shaft cuff boot in black leather
• Tory Burch’s short pull-up motorcycle boot in suede
• Ash’s high-top sneaker wedge
• Jean-Michel Cazabat’s pointy-toe cap-toe bootie
• B Brian Atwood’s liquid metallic pump and black riding boot with glitter back
Directional lines: Miu Miu, Jean-Michel Cazabat, B Brian Atwood and Marc by Marc Jacobs. “[They all] have a strong, sophisticated and edgy modern look. Whether it’s motorcycle boots, over-the-knee boots, sparkle, embellishments, use of texture, pointy-toe characters or a new jewel-tone palette, these collections were fresh and all about the details.”
Ones to watch: “While they are not a new brand, Dolce Vita continues to impress with its innovation and direction. They are always on the pulse.”

Tracy Margolies
VP & DMM of women’s footwear, Saks Fifth Avenue

Strongest trends:
“Menswear-inspired footwear, ankle-wrap details and cap toes.”
Must-carry styles:
• The single-sole, pointy-toe pump
• The smoking shoe
• Flat booties
• Motorcycle boots
Ones to watch: Jerome Rousseau and Nicholas Kirkwood. “Needless to say, we really believe in Nicholas,” Margolies said while the designer greeted a packed crowd at Saks earlier this month.

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