FN Spy: Atwood Adds On … Alejandro’s New Heights

Jet Sketching
For designers Laurence Dacade and Kat Maconie, travel is a major part of life. And these women don’t miss an opportunity to put it to good use. On her upcoming trip to Brazil for a photo shoot with Elle Brazil, Maconie said she plans to sketch for fall ’12. “It’s a 12-hour flight, so it’s the best time to design. I don’t get distracted.” Dacade agreed that flying makes for optimal design conditions. “It’s time that belongs to you,” Dacade said. Meanwhile, the designer’s spring ’12 collection consists of equal parts girly and rocker vibes. “I design timeless, elegant shoes you wear forever and stronger punk styles inspired by music. But every woman has these two parts.” Of the more punk, superhero-appropriate styles, she said, “It was all about simple shapes and technological details to show modernity. I was thinking of David Bowie, painted tattoos and mohawks.” 


Taking Shape
Creative Director Alessandra Lanvin imagined a “modern geisha in Savannah” for the Aperlai spring collection. Super-high platforms and woven raffia played a leading role in the season’s offering, with braided raffia in leopard print on single-soled sandals and colorful woven thigh-high boots in the material. Pop-color pink hues, neons paired with natural leathers and mid-heels were also a focus, with a new mid-heel wedge making its debut. “Pink goes with everything!” exclaimed the designer. Of the collection’s eye-catching sculpted heels, many with wing-like “spokes,” Lanvin explained, “We continued with graphic, geometric constructions. They’re perfect to wear with something with volume.”


Brian’s New Hire
Brian Atwood is turning to an old friend to help him expand his namesake line. The designer recently hired Concetta Marella as design director. The pair first worked together when Atwood hired Marella in 2001 at Versace. (Marella went on to become head designer of women’s accessories when Atwood left Versace to launch his eponymous collection.) “I am so pleased to be working with Concetta again,” Atwood said. “I recognized her enormous talents when I first hired her to work with me at Versace, and am so excited to be able to come together again a decade later. We have a great history, and I look forward to a tremendously successful future together.”

Making Moves
Alejandro Ingelmo is branching out. During his Paris presentation this month, he said the fall ’12 collection is “going to be a nice evolution.” The designer plans to expand into different categories, including more flats and breaking into mid-heels. “I always think in terms of business strategy and design all at once,” Ingelmo said. “Everyone was doing mid-heels, but I held off. Now it’s flowing for me. It’s the right time for me to do some hot mid-heels.”


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